The finer qualities of Oudh culture

Wearing pearl earrings and a large pair of glasses hiding kohl-lined pale, sinking eyes, an ageing nawab (person of high status), Naqi Mirza, popularly known as Nawab Babba Jani Sahib, weakly straddled into the portico of the Union Home Ministry’s wasiqa (pension) office in old Lucknow.

As he climbed the stairs, he adjusted the glasses on the bridge of his nose and had another look at his worn-out coat. Though bending with age, the old man tried to walk upright to show that he was still quite fit. He made sure that he looked presentable, after all, he had come to collect the prestigious monthly pension.

Before he took the stairs, a hefty qulfi (old-style ice cream) vendor wished him a loud “Adaab arz hai” (my salutations) in typical Lucknow style. The man humoured the nawab: “I have prepared these qulfis especially for you, Sir. Only you could appreciate and relish these.” But the nawab honestly told him: “I have no money right now. Let me collect my wasiqa first.”

Just then, another nawab alighted from a bicycle driven by his grandson. The vendor asked him why he looked a bit run down. “Don’t you see I am running a very high temperature?” came the reply. All those standing nearby nodded in the affirmative.

After collecting his meagre pension, the “sick” nawab was seen lapping up ice cream. These men were among Lucknow’s nawabs — survivors of a fast dwindling order who visited the wasiqa office on the first day of every month. The pension was paid out of the interest on the huge wealth set apart by Bahu Begum, spouse of nawab Shuja-ud-Daula, Mohammad Ali Shah and the other rulers of Oudh from time to time. The objective was to help the future generations of their descendents, dependents and attendants.

The original value of the bequeathed property was said to have amounted to six million silver rupees, 250,000 gold coins, jewellery as well as a huge estate. As the East India Company expanded its hold on the country, the Oudh dynasty paled into insignificance.

Most of the nawabs disappeared while their descendants grew in number. They came to be accepted as nawabs by the society. Lucknow, being the capital of Oudh, had the largest concentration of these people. They nurtured and perpetuated the finer qualities of the Oudh culture, the courteous mannerisms, sophisticated speech and dealing with others that gave Lucknow a unique identity in the country. For example, if a stranger asked someone in Lucknow about somebody’s address, he was likely to escort the visitor to his destination.

With the influx of people from other regions, those niceties of Oudh culture started to decline. The trend could also be attributed to other factors, such as the tensions and stresses of daily life and all the problems that arise from an ever-growing population.

The first day of every month being a big day for these pension holders, they go wearing their “best”. However, the wrinkles on their coats show that they are dusted off and worn only once a month. A dirty shirt or vest inside, says a lot. They are a pitiable lot today, hit by poverty and ignorance.

They are carried on bicycles by their dear ones or travel on foot to collect the small amount. And collect they must, because that signifies their link with the royalty of yesteryear. Interestingly, some of them have become philanthropic and give away the little amount as a tip to the poorer souls waiting in the porch of the office. However, waiting money-lenders also pounce to collect their EMI (equated monthly instalment) from indebted pensioners.

As a result, many are empty-handed by the time they go back to their inherited palatial but dilapidated mansions that they cannot maintain any more. The lack of even a reasonable level of schooling, ailments and their leisurely lifestyle during the hey-days have rendered them physically and temperamentally unfit for the ‘rainy day’. They live on a meagre rental income and wasiqa.

For many, physical labour, however lucrative, is against their dignity, especially because their forefathers had given employment to many. Many spurned good offers even when faced with hunger, while others have become poets.

I witnessed these scenes years ago, which still continue, though the amount of pension and the number of pensioners have declined.