Shade out the ultraviolet

Not long ago, time pulled me from the carefree exuberance of my twenties. Mourning the disappearance of my youthful looks and unable to pass for a teenager any longer, the anti-ageing propaganda dispensed by cosmetic companies struck a chord.

But as I slather myself in a concoction containing sea kelp, I wonder whether it is really possible to delay the ageing process.

Cream of the facts

According to scientific reports, the biggest enemy in the war on ageing is the sun, in particular its ultra violet (UV) radiation.

“The two most prominent types of UV radiation that come from the sun are UVA and UVB,'' says Dr Max Sawaf, CEO of Emirates Hospital Group.

“UVB rays are responsible for sunburn and cause melanomas but UVA rays penetrate the skin, causing collagen damage and the skin to develop a leathery appearance.''

While the importance of using a sunscreen or sunblock is widely accepted, there is confusion about how such products work.

“The SPF rating on a product protects against UVB only,'' explains Dr Bejoy, dermatologist at NMC Speciality Hospital in Abu Dhabi.

“The paler your skin tone, the higher the SPF rating you should use. SPF of 20 to 30 is the most suitable for the UAE climate.

To protect against UVA, products need to contain ingredients such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

UVA protection is not measured by a number, rather it is denoted by a plus sign.

"Products with one plus offer limited protection while products with three plus signs offer maximum protection.''

Begin young

Given that 80 per cent of sun damage is done before you are 18 years old, experts recommend using a broad-spectrum sunscreen — one that protects you against UVA and UVB simultaneously — as early as possible.

In addition, it is advisable to avoid the sun at peak times.

“Overdosing on sun exposure at peak times of the day is the No 1 cause of premature ageing,'' says Sawaf.

“The best sunscreens are only 93 per cent effective, so avoid the sun between 10am and 4pm, when it is at its strongest.''

Two areas which often betray a woman's age are the eye contour region and the hands, so special consideration needs to be given to these areas.

“The area around the eye is very delicate because the skin layers are so thin,'' says Dr Inaam Faiq, medical director at Eternel Medspa in Dubai.

“Always wear sunglasses when outside as they provide almost 100 per cent protection against the harmful UV rays.''

Hand in glove

“Although the hands are more resistant than the face, they are often forgotten about,'' says Dr Bejoy. “UVA can penetrate untinted windscreens so to keep hands youthful, use gloves when driving.''

Complementing sun protection with a good skin care regime is the best route to maintaining a youthful complexion, says Dr Inaam. “Ensure anti-ageing ingredients such as retinol or alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) are present in the night cream you use.

Smoking also accelerates the ageing process. “Smoking is a vasoconstrictor,'' says Bejoy.

“It allows free radicals to form that damage cell DNA and the skin's elastic fibres, collagen.''

Although it is easy to reach for a tub of cream or a bottle of serum, a holistic approach to ageing is the most successful, as Dr Inaam says.

“Skin is a living organism and reflects our lifestyle,'' she says. “A healthy diet is crucial and drinking water hydrates the skin and improves its appearance.''

Given the inflated cost of many anti-ageing products, that's good news for those on a budget. Perhaps it's time to replace my morning latte.