Leather and bling at the Dubai Fashion Week

The penultimate day of the Dubai Fashion Week kicked off with designer Jaya Misra's bridal collection. Anarkalis (tunics with flare panelling) and stone-encrusted saris made from shimmering georgettes and chiffons were the dominant players. Entitled Navaratna (nine precious stones) collection, an array of body-contouring tunics in jewel tones like emerald and deep rubies teamed with blouses made of stretchable velvets made it onto the runway. Transparent nets on the back of the vests were a common thread that held her collection together. Though her bridal stock reminded you of the ones churned out seasons ago by Manish Malhotra and his ilk, Misra believes there is room for everybody when it comes to heavily-bejewelled Anarkalis.

"Every designer has their own forte. My cuts are different and my collection is unique and will look great on a woman who wants to feel royal," said Misra when asked if her collection was inspired by Malhtora.

The right curves

The good thing about her tunics made from stretchable fabric was that it was highly forgiving and clung to the right curves in a woman.

Leather and leggings was another popular staple. The designer who stood out from the leather lot was 18-year-old fashion student Anum Moosa who unveiled her rocker-chic collection. Models with Mohican and punk hair-dos poured themselves into leather leggings with metallic spokes. A favourite was the black buoffant dress made from leather and crochet cinched at the waist with a grey belt.

"My collection is for all those teenagers out there with an attitude. If they are really happy, they wouldn't really be wearing what I have designed. You should have a darker side to you," said Moosa.

Mexican designer Marie Carmen Fallaha placed comfort over all else. Models in over-sized cardigans, paired with leather leggings and cosy glittering pumps drove home her effortlessly-chic theme.

"I was inspired by the '80s look and the essence of my collection was to make a woman feel comfortable and chic. There's no rule in fashion that says only heels can make a woman stand out. Even the pumps, which was my design, are to make a woman feel chic without trying too hard," said Fallaha after her show.

Single-sleeved dresses in shimmery wool were also a part of her pret autumn line.

The previous season's Emerging Talent Nasrine Dechache introduced her label Montaigne. She had models wear over-sized nerdy glasses with casual T-shirts and ripped leggings. Exaggerated and power shoulders in the form of fuschia shoulder padding made its mark on the runway. But it was her smart cropped jackets (both in leather and tweed) paired with simple white T-shirts that caught everybody's attention.

"Waistcoats and jackets have been in trend for some-time but I added an edgy twist to it by including power-shoulders. And always wear heels, it can make your legs look endless," said Dechache.

Meanwhile, Arshia Khan unveiled her fluid kaftans in greens and pinks which soon gave way to bohemian loose tunics with gold prints. But her presentation was not complete without hints of the all-pervading DFW material. She incorporated leather trimmings into the traditional abayas and gave them an interesting twist.

"My Baroque collection was inspired from the Renaissance paintings and in my abayas I added some leather to give it an edgy look," said Khan, who made her DFW in the 2008 Emerging talent segment.

Crystal, velvet

A much-needed break from leggings and leathers came in the form of Aditi Jaggi Rastogi and Priyanka Kakkar's collection. While the latter used peacock colours like blues and greens to her advantage, Rastogi incorporated other DFW elements like shining Swarovski crystals and shiny velvets into her collection.

"I designed my collection keeping in mind the tastes of the Arabic and local clientele. We did a study here and found out that people like shiny fabrics and crystals in their dresses," said Rastogi.

Though it was hard to fight her logic, a bit of creativity would have also gone a long way in lifting her ordinary creations to superlative standards.

Later in the evening, it was time to up the ante as Lebanese designer Hadi Katra's models took to the stage for his eponymous haute couture label. A vision of purple and pink opened the showed in a ruffled dress. Elegant and feminine, the Esmod Paris graduate said he was honouring beautiful women around the world. And so it was as dresses in satin, taffeta, muslin and lace, many complemented by pretty oversized bows, dominated the runway.

There were also animal prints with Katra showcasing colours of zebras, leopard and snakeskin in what was likely the most glamorous show of Day 4.

He was followed by Qatari designer Fatma Al Majid, who showcased a collection of abayas last season, but this time introduced a 38-piece collection featuring gowns and dresses.

Abaya designers Mariam and Fatifa Mostafa came next, introducing their label Marayem Abbayas, followed by Slouchy'Z (see the Abaya Report).

The evening then came to a shimmering end as Pakistani designer Asim Jofa, who has a background in jewellery design, sent his models in clothes inspired by, well, jewellery.

With every piece adorned by heavily embellished (with gold and precious stones) embroidery, Jofa paraded his models in grandiose pieces, liberally using a variety of colours as if to test just how the embroidery worked with each one of them. Many did, while some seemed a bit simple with the glitter highlight being their saving grace.

Still, each creation seemed to have been built with the embroidery as its focal point: Some formed part of the bodice, others hung round the neck like a necklace while others ended right in the centre of the body, forming intricate patterns only a jewellery designer can master.

Even if some of the clothes seemed dangerously close to be outshone, Jofa strengthened his collection by playing with dual shades to amazing effect.

A well-attended show, a bit of a rarity this season, Jofa was the first designer to receive a standing ovation — even if it was only from his PR and entourage.