Jacobs reincarnates punk

American designers have rekindled their love affair for the 1980s. At William Rast this affection surfaced in the form of acid wash denim, while earlier in the week Hervé Léger produced sculptured micro dresses that would have looked right at home on the set of Mad Max. On Monday night, Marc Jacobs' ode to the era was to reincarnate the punk.

Beginning the show just before 8pm, in what some would suggest a snub to the fashion press' previous complaints about the designer's lack of punctuality, Jacobs let his dynamic designs speak volumes.

Big hair, big shoulders and big colours were the order of the evening, with the loud attire filling the vast New York State Armory - which seemed larger as a result of the culled guest list.

Jacobs realised that without the usual glitterati and front row posers, the emphasis needed to be squarely on the models.

The unrestrained clothes were unlike anything else seen at New York Fashion Week which is not atypical for Jacobs who is often credited as a fashion mastermind who sets trends, rather than follows them.

Practical black was also thrown by the wayside as fluro-coloured hooded coats teamed with toe-curling booties, were interspersed with satin prom dresses that would have sent Molly Ringwald into a spin almost 30 years ago.

Backstage Jacobs told journalists that he was determined to have fun in spite of the nation's economic woes. Referring to the inspiration behind the collection, the designer said it came from "What New York used to be before it was gentrified and such a boring place to live. When artists could make a living here." Judging from the reaction to his latest creations, Mr Jacobs will not be scrounging for pennies anytime soon.