At the Dubai Fashion Week

For designers, the trial fitting session ahead of a runway show is akin to a pregnant woman going into labour. There's a palpable tension and a sense of nervous expectation, the result of months of working on a gestating collection, although out of politeness, there are no blood-curdling screams.

Imagine that, plus dozens of models and reams of fabric, and you're halfway into the chaotic scene that was unfolding at the Media Rotana Hotel on Sunday.

Essentially, these fitting sessions prior to Dubai Fashion Week were a make or break moment for the designers. Each was given less than two hours to select their models, to dress them in what they hope are perfectly fitting designs, choose the accessories and decide on the sequence in which they will appear on the runway.

Armed with a checklist, most of the designers - including Reem Ali Beljafla, Ekta Singh, Amir Adnan and Hassan Yasin (HSY) - fared fabulously as they went about their business of nipping, tucking and snipping with great precision.

If DFW regular HSY was trying to accommodate his all his fittings - he's presenting three separate collections - in one day, designer debutante Reem Ali Beljafla was hailing her first fashion outing as "an adventure of her life".

In another corner of the floor, L'Oreal make-up artist Alexis C. Dralet was trying his best to add a little drama to the designers' dreams. tabloid! spent a day backstage to catch a slice of the fashion fever.

You could not make it up

Make-up artist to the stars, Alexis C. Dralet, was seeking solace in espresso shots on Sunday afternoon.

After meeting 14 of the 30 participating designers, Dralet - the lead make-up artist and coordinator for L'Oreal at Dubai Fashion Week - found most were clinging to ideas about neutral tones and dramatic eye make-up. His advice at lightening up was not met with any warm tones.

"People, stop taking yourself so seriously. It's not good if you think you are the centre of existence. And for heaven's sake, it will do a lot of good if you could let go of the neutral shades and those dramatic smoky eyes.

"There is so much heaviness in the world now, it's time for some bright colours. Think pinks, purples," said Dralet. But he tempers the dressing down he directed at designers by looking at the bigger picture. In his experience, working on fashion shows is easier than making up a celebrity prior to high-profile events.

The diminutive Frenchman has wielded the make-up brush for the likes of Claudia Schiffer, Susan Sarandon, Aishwarya Rai, Kylie Minogue and Andie MacDowell.

"Working with models and on fashion shows is easier because you are working on pretty, young and flawless 15 to 25-year-olds. But when you are working with an actress, you are often working on an older face. In my eyes, working with a model is like painting on a plain white canvas while working on an actress is like working on an existing painting. So you have to be very careful," says Dralet.

He even takes time out to learn all about his clients before starting with his make-up.

"A make-up artist has almost a psychological connection with the face he is working on. Since we are working so closely, it is important to establish that bond," says Dralet.

The one celebrity that he has severed connections with is Naomi Campbell. Dralet has sworn never to pick up the brush for her, "If there is one person in this world whose face I will not touch, it is Naomi Campbell. I think she will never ever find a make-up artist in Paris. I don't want to go into the details, but she is a nasty person," he says.

In comparison Kylie Minogue passes with flying colours. Dralet worked with her during the launch of her album Kylie X, and created looks for her World Tour.

"Kylie is an absolute sweetheart. Life has been tough but she is so kind towards everybody around her and I like that about her," says Dralet.

Dralet's top make up tips:

*If you are 35 years and older, get rid of the foundation and the lip gloss. They do no good. Opt for creamy lipsticks and mineral foundations to avoid the caked effect.

* When it comes to mineral foundation, don't merely apply it on the face. Take some on your palm, grind it and then apply it on your face and neck.

*Bring on the colours this season. Shy away from neutral or minimalist tones.

Dralet's top clients:

Aishwarya Rai: She is so beautiful, it is not fair. [Worked on her make up during the Pink Panther 2 Premiere in Paris] Susan Sarandon: She is beautiful in and out. [He worked on her red carpet look at Cannes]

Aishwarya Rai: "She is so beautiful, it is not fair." [He worked on her make-up during the Pink Panther 2 Premiere in Paris]. Susan Sarandon: "She is beautiful in and out." [He worked on her red carpet look at Cannes]

More on the Fashion Week

Dubai Fashion Week is often snubbed for being less about business and more about being non-stop party central. The opening party held at the Hive at Souq Al Bahar in downtown Dubai, lived up to its infamous reputation. Designers, many of whom had a taxing trial session, were found unwinding and hobnobbing with fellow designers and buyers. The trials and triumphs in the first half of the day were forgotten as they talked shop and skirts.

As far as stereotypes go, the glorified clothes hanger label attached to models must be one of the hardest to shake. But skinny lattés weren't the only accessory in their hands. As they waited for their turn to be ushered into the dressing room, most of them sought solace in books. What's more, the catwalkers were not in the least catty, as one of them was heard promising to lend her copy of The Kite Runner as soon as she was done with it.

Delhi-based designer Ekta Singh was in knots of sorts on Sunday. Her opening pieces - sheer tunics teamed with bikinis and hotpants - will have to be lined to suit local sensibilities.

"I had planned to introduce four sheer tunics, but now I will have to come up with a back-up plan and get hold of the tailor, buy some lining material and then sew it on the transparent tunics. This was so unexpected, but I guess drama makes my visit more memorable," says Singh.

Pakistani-based designer Amir Adnan was ecstatic about making his debut in DFW. His long-flowing silk chiffon gowns studded with crystals looked ethereal, but his trial fitting sessions fell short of his expectations when he realised the models were not as tall as he had anticipated.

Expecting 180cm-plus runway-ready models, he had to make peace with models hitting the 160cm mark. It was endearing to see Adnan take control of the sliding sartorial situation, as an emotional roller coaster took him from disbelief to despair to quiet resignation.

"Bring on the killer heels," was his oft-repeated phrase.