A little rock 'n' roll

As Barbara Bui settles into an oversized couch that swallows her petite frame, she draws a Kleenex from her handbag to give her nose an almighty blow. It's a great icebreaker because her exterior is, well, a little intimidating.

Tight leather pants, layered tanks, killer heels and thick black bangs may belie her 53 years, but it's also the epitome of rock ‘n' roll chic, for which her label is synonymous.

It's nice to know that even those who dwell on the edgier side of cool are still susceptible to life's little nuisances such as the common cold.

While there's little doubt the designer is the perfect clothes horse for her eponymous label thanks to some enviable genes (her father is Vietnamese, her mother French), Bui's sense of fashion is about much more than just looking good.

"Empowerment," is her immediate response when asked to sum up her design ethos, which began with her first Paris boutique in 1988.

"I think my client is a combination of a woman who is assured of herself but also very feminine and sensual," she explains in stilted English. "I like to reflect my own emotions and sensibilities into my work as a woman and as a mother but at the same time to capture the movement of life."

Biker chic

Bui's feminine perspective to fashion has been like a cool breeze in what is an otherwise stifling male dominated industry. Some two decades since she first burst onto the scene, there are still very few women who front French fashion houses. "It was a surprise at the start of my career that women very quickly understood my point of view. Sometimes my clothes can be very feminine or even sexy but it's always still very delicate."

This juxtaposition is ever-present in Bui's work. The autumn-winter 09 collection (currently available in Dubai's Harvey Nichols) is a mix of LA road trip complete with biker boots, fringed shoulder bags and skin-tight leather pants teamed with girly sequins, kimonos and sheer blouses.

Bui believes the contrasts reflect her own personal dichotomy due to her Asian-European heritage. "My Asian heritage is an unconscious influence. The way I express the sensuality, it's not very provocative. In Asia we believe that you don't need to show your sexuality in a very outward way. At the same time I am very concerned about modernity and I think this comes from my mother."

She says that both her parents possessed an understated elegance but their influence did not lead to a career in fashion. Rather it was the study of literature at the historic Sorbonne University that would confirm her future. "I always wanted to write but then I began to meet people who were in fashion. It was kind of just play in the beginning — not very serious — but then I realised that fashion could be a way to express myself also."

Her collections soon became an international hit, leading her to list her company on the stockmarket in 1998. Shoes, handbags, perfume and a diffusion line soon followed. But it's her trousers — known for their masterful cut to accentuate a woman's shape — that have earned her a loyal fan base.

"In the beginning I couldn't imagine the growth," she says. "There are still a lot of possibilities — glasses, jewellery, evening dresses and child fashion. You have to work a lot to keep your self relevant."

Bui's rules for fashion success:

• Know Yourself: "You can't be well dressed if you don't know yourself. If you only follow fashion trends you're just a victim."
• Find A Balance: "Try and find a good balance between accessories and the trends. You can have very simple clothes but the ensemble is made with strong accessories."
• Embrace Getting Older: "When you're young you're still self-conscious. The period of the 30s for a woman is really beautiful because you have developed your own style. When I was in my 20s I was more discreet, now I express more power. I think it's the same for a lot of women."