Why Alfie's is a Brit of alright

In the Queen's Diamond Jubilee year - and with the London Olympics just around the corner - there are numerous ways to demonstrate either your patriotism or love of all things British. You could for example, dress up like a Pearly King, adopt a Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins accent and call all your mates on the dog and bone to invite them to a ‘right ol' knees up'. Alternatively, you can don some plus fours, arm yourself with a copy of Debrett's Peerage & Baronetage and enjoy a spirited debate about how they should bring back military service for the youth of today whilst petting a springer spaniel.

Or, easy option three would be to head along to Alfie's at Jumeirah Emirates Towers to discover a range of old favourites and new twists on some classic British dishes in a setting that's both elegant and wonderfully unpretentious.

The dishes are particularly hearty, evoking the sort of fare you could expect to be served up in a country gastro pub that William and Harry frequent after a day on the polo field. Starters consist of 12 options - plus two soups - with the oh-so British likes of apricot chutney, piccalilli, toast and bone marrow all putting in appearances as accompaniments to dishes including Potted shrimps, Smoked haddock hash and Duck rillette. We opted for the hash (with my dining companion, a delightful product of the British boarding-school system, finding this school-dinner-esque option just like cook used to make!), which came with poached organic eggs - just on the right side of runniness - and grain mustard; as well as a Pear and walnut salad with Ticklemore goats' cheese which was unadorned by any kind of vinaigrette or dressing, allowing the crunch of the slithers of pear to be enjoyed au naturel with the tang of the cheese.

Elsewhere, Game terrine, Pressed belly of lamb and Native oysters are all dishes you might expect to be served up as kitchen supps in Carol Middleton's Bucklebury kitchen, whilst you discuss Pippa's latest naughtiness.

Mains are well defined and non-messed-about-with, with sides that'll stick to your ribs. Go carb-light with the Supreme of seabass in a lentil and mussel stew, which yields a meaty slab of fish in a flavoursome broth (stew is probably too thick a word for it really), or get stuck into the Grilled rib of beef, Roast wood pigeon or Rabbit pie. Vegetarians beware, you'll find only one option suited to you in the mains (just as you will in the starters) - the Potato dumplings with wild mushrooms, but if your tastes stretch to the sea, then the restaurant's signature dish of Alfie's fish and chips is a comforting standout (though ever so slightly less adventurous than the Traditional haggis with clapshot).

Thick chunks of crispy-yet-fluffy chips and a more-creamy-than-mushy side of peas accompany a juicy and well-battered serving of fish, to which we added a side of Bubble and squeak we were too stuffed to finish. The desserts were a highlight - though a teensy bit on the large side - and we wolfed down the Apple and rhubarb crumble and an incredible Burnt lemon cream - think crème brûlée, but lemony, which swiftly entered our ‘top five UAE desserts' list. Elsewhere, get your spoon stuck into Sherry trifle, Bread and butter pudding and British farmhouse cheese. Totes rah!

Tasty trio: Modern British

Table 9

Why choose one dish when you can enjoy a selection? That’s the mantra behind Table 9’s chefs Scott and Nick approach to dining and we wholeheartedly approve. The food is expertly prepared and looks almost too good to eat... almost! The menu is divided into three price sections – Dh70 starters, Dh100 mains and Dh55 desserts – and you’re encouraged to try a few of the delicious dished they have on offer. We love the amuse bouche of “potted plant with edible soil” (cauliflower veloute to you and I).
Location Hilton Dubai Creek
Timing Sun-Fri, 6.30pm-11.30pm
Tel 04 227 1111

The Wharf

For homesick Brits this restaurant has it all, delicious dishes to remind you of home including Sunday roasts and a curry night. But book yourself a table on the outdoor terrace with views over the Madinat’s waterways to remind yourself why you’re in Dubai. They serve good pub grub in a relaxed environment, and we love their themed nights, including Thursday’s mussels night.
Location Mina A’Salam, Madinat Jumeirah
Timing Sat-Thu, 7pm-11.30pm; Fri, 12.30pm-4pm
Tel 04 366 6730

Rhodes Mezzanine

Brit chef Gary Rhodes has famously taken popular British dishes and pulled them into the 21st century. After strolling through the sleek white restaurant that resembles something out of Alice In Wonderland, you can choose between the main menu or a get a feel for everything on offer with the taster menu, with both frequently updated to accommodate seasonal dishes. But the giant Jaffa Cake pudding will always be our ultimate dessert. 
Location Tower Two, Grosvenor House
Timing Mon-Sat, 7pm-11.30pm
Tel 04 317 6862