Spectrum on One almost perfect

You cannot fail to be impressed by the atmosphere at Spectrum on One.

From the minute you are greeted at the door the service and attention you receive leaves you in no doubt that your needs are being taken care of in the best way possible.

The stylish décor represents modern simplicity and by the time you are ready to order you are already expecting perfection on your plate.

Until the end of May, resident chef Steven Liu is cooking up Chinese cuisine with a Shanghai and Szechuan flavour.

To be honest, it was something of a relief this was to be the basis of the review given the rest of the menu is so extensive and attractive it can take an age to decide what to plump for.

The choice on offer was not vast — four starters, six main courses and a single dessert — but there was enough to make even the most decisive diner take a little time to weight up their options.

Delightful

Sharing is the way forward when it comes to oriental food and although the crispy chicken and eel soup sounded intriguing we opted for wok fried scallops and green asparagus alongside king prawns with mayonnaise.

The scallops were solid, if unspectacular, and cooked to perfection with just the right amount of anise so as not to detract from the delicate flavour of the shellfish.

The prawns, meanwhile, were a triumph. Served with bell peppers and honey glazed walnuts in a warm mayonnaise sauce, the flavours complemented each other perfectly.

The sweetness of the nuts combined with the fish was delightful, while the mayonnaise did not overpower, as you might imagine it would, and only enhanced the dish.

Emboldened by the entrees, and glad we did not over-do it on the fine selection of breads offered at the start, the taste buds were suitably tickled in preparation for the main course, which was enjoyed with a pot of fresh jasmine tea.

Having chosen the prawns as an opener we reluctantly passed them up second time around in preference for the steamed king crab and tofu.

This proved to be a mistake as I spent the whole dish rueing my error. The pieces of crab were good but outnumbered by the rectangles of tofu, instead of the other way around, and the sauce was a little bland despite the welcome addition of soya beans.

Not deceiving

The second main dish saved the day, however. The deep fried whole hammour looked spectacular on the plate and the appearance was not deceiving.

Crisp on the outside, inside lay perfectly cooked flesh that melted in the mouth and ratified our decision to swap the regular rice accompaniment for a plate of wok-fried vegetables in oyster sauce. The two dovetailed perfectly.

As the fresh melon with almond jelly and coconut tapioca didn't command our attention we ate from the regular dessert menu. And we were glad we did for we would not have tasted the delights of the warm molten chocolate cake with white coffee ice cream.

The cake was fit to burst and the sight upon breaking into it was heavenly as the sultry, liquid dark chocolate oozed out on the plate. The malt emulsion in a side glass brought little to the overall experience but it mattered not.

It proved a fitting end to a satisfying meal in perfect surroundings.

Checklist

Where: Fairmont Dubai, Shaikh Zayed Road.
When: 6pm-1.30am daily; Friday brunch midday-3pm.
Seating: 200.
Dress Code: Casual/smart.

The verdict: 4 stars

Don't miss it!

Chef de Cuisine Steven Liu is presenting his Shanghai and Szechuan-inspired Great Wall of Chinese Cuisine menu at the Fairmont Dubai from now until May 31.