Nozomi: quality comes at a price

Madonna might have sung about us living in a material world, but first and foremost it's a globalised world we live in. A McWorld, of sorts — the result of eons of Coca-Colonisation. So you'll find Indian restaurants in the most unlikely spots around the world, a restaurant right here in Dubai proud of serving from the same kitchen Russian, Lebanese and Arabic cuisine, and — even — good food in the UK.

Thus I was pleasantly surprised when a friend recently revealed he'd never had sushi, or for that matter tasted any Japanese food. It was easy to decide who was to accompany me when the award-winning London restaurant Nozomi recently opened a branch in the Habtoor Grand.

The spiced edamame, an exciting take on the staple Japanese appetiser with the soy beans lightly sautéed in chilli, went down a treat as we settled in. While the low lighting of the interior adds to its chicness, it serves quite another purpose on the terrace — a more laid-back atmosphere.

Easy to relax

Looking out over the sea from Nozomi's perch on the 25th floor, you're sheltered from the hustle and bustle of the JBR area. And you have a panoramic view that can't easily be beat.

Coupled with heavy whitewashed wooden furniture that wouldn't be out of place in a Mediterranean setting, it's easy to relax here. The hovering waiting staff manage the admirable feat of blending into the background while remaining attentive to diners' needs.

The music changes subtly as the evening rolls on, creating a more lounge-like atmosphere later on, suggesting this to be the perfect spot to fuel up before giving yourself over to a DJ for a night of clubbing.

To ease us into what would be my companion's first raw fish experience, we first had beef gyoza brought to the table. The tender pieces of meat in their translucent dumpling pockets scored a thumbs up. As slippery as it was chewy, the size and consistency was spot-on.

After some initial fumbling, the chopsticks were mastered and seafood was ordered. The sashimi salmon was beautifully patterned, obviously cut from quality meat. The chef's nigiri selection continued in this vein. It also makes for a colourful spread — slabs of tuna, prawn and salmon atop sculpted rice that is sticky, not dry and yet not mushy.

Feeling more adventurous by this stage, we moved on to the various maki rolls on offer. From the combinations of dressed-up fish, fruit and veggies, I've always favoured the spicy salmon, and Nozomi's didn't disappoint. But it was the spider maki that captured our attention — not just for its impressive presentation.

Soft shell crab, deep fried, gives this dish its name, with the claws representing the legs of a spider. Wrapped up with onions, cucumber and — pleasantly surprising — pomello, it means you'll have to open wide, but the payoff is worth it.

Deciding to work our way through more bite-sized options, we didn't get to the heavier main dishes. Japanese cuisine being what it is though, you don't have to (nor risk feeling hungry mere minutes after leaving). Instead, the tart sorbets rounded off our meal.

Maybe Madge had gotten it right when she hit upon her material point. Dh72 for two chicken skewers, perfectly prepared as they were, seems a bit excessive. But perhaps, as they say, quality does come at a price.