Noodle delights

J Smith discovers an adventure of the palate in Dubai's newest branch of wagamama.

wagamama
The Greens, Dubai

Stepping into wagamama is a reassuring experience. Orderly wooden tables and benches are clean and uncluttered, and the aroma that hits you is mouth-watering, to say the least.

The line of photographs on the far wall as you walk in shows repeated images of someone drinking from a bowl of soup big enough to obscure their head — a display that personifies the brand and emphasises wagamama's reverence towards the food it serves.

Further evidence of its respect for the cuisine can be found in the clear view into the spotless, stainless-steel kitchen where efficient chefs seem to create tantalising dishes in a flash.

Head start

Since its arrival in The Greens, Dubai, in July, the restaurant has had a steady stream of visitors in contrast to the slow start you might expect from a newly established business, (especially one opening in the middle of summer offering a staple diet of noodles in hot soup).

But, with the established reputation of other branches across the world, its head start was inevitable.

So it was with confidence and anticipation that we took our wooden seats at a table for two by the window.

We were greeted by a friendly waiter who cryptically scribbled "331" on our paper printed place mats.

This, it turned out, was our table number, judging from the bill. But without immediately knowing its meaning, this simple act gave the staff an air of authority we were happy to surrender to.

In control

The menu, too, is very much in control with clear sections and instructions as well as explanations for newcomers talking you through what to expect.

With not a capital letter in sight, it succeeds in making you feel at ease and reinforces the friendly experience wagamama seeks to create for its customers.

The choice was plentiful with a wealth of side dishes and ample ramen (big bowls of noodles in soup) to select from.

Noodles were also served in coconut-based soups, cooked on a hot, flat griddle and presented in a spicy sauce.

In addition, there were rice-based dishes, salads and teriyaki specialities on offer.

I opted for ebi chilli men which consisted of stir-fried prawns, green peppers and carrots in a chilli sauce with ramen noodles. When it arrived, I must confess, it looked like spaghetti Bolognese at first glance. But the taste had a personality of its own.

Spicy zing

The prawns were fresh, succulent and sublime with a distinctive flavour that both contrasted and complemented the sweet chilli sauce.

While each mouthful left a spicy zing on the palate, it was not too hot to handle and provided a satisfying sensation confirming that I was eating an adventure.

My partner selected beef kareraisu, comprising beef tenderloin in a red curry sauce served with Japanese-style rice.

Sampling a mouthful in the interest of research, it was a triumph of its own, sporting a slightly creamy consistency and a delicate combination of spices.

The main courses were more than enough, but at the time of ordering we could hungrily plead ignorance.

That's why we ordered a side dish of tori kara age, deep fried chicken pieces prepared in a soy sauce, dried oregano and fresh ginger marinade and served with a sauce of soy, garlic and chilli.

Slight blip

This was the only letdown of the meal as the chicken was a bit dry and fatty, and its promise from the description was a long way from reaching its potential.

However, the blip could not negate an otherwise faultless experience. The staff — a mixture of nationalities — was welcoming, polite and attentive, checking occasionally to ensure everything was to our liking.

The surroundings were of a minimalist but high-quality design, complete with a thoughtful ledge under the long tables to stow your handbag. And the price was very reasonable for fresh cuisine skilfully created.

While the dessert menu has yet to arrive — I'm told it's coming soon — we left as happy customers looking forward to our next wagamama outing.

Checklist

Getting there: The Greens, Dubai Also at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, Shaikh Zayed Road, Dubai.
Open: 11am to 11pm.
Decor: Minimalist but stylish.
Seating: 46
Dress code: Casual
Recommended: Ebi chilli men.
The verdict: 4/5