A ‘peaceful’ homemade authentic Italian feast

DUBAI: Walking into Pax is like taking a walk through an ancient Roman alley – complete with Roman columns and Italian frescoes. But the scenario switches as soon as we are seated. Yes, all 36 covers (as seats are known in hospitality lingo) at Pax, on the 24th floor of the Dusit Thani hotel, have floor-to-ceiling windows offering probably one of the best views of Shaikh Zayed Road.

You feel like you’re at the confluence of two cities – Dubai and Rome. One side of the window offers an unhindered view of the traffic weaving along Shaikh Zayed Road while the other side gives you an unobstructed view of the majestic Burj Khalifa.

Soon we are introduced to chef Fabio Genghini who helps us narrow our choices from his expansive new menu. “I have tried to maintain the taste as close as possible to how food is made in Italian homes,” said the chef from Rome who has created the new Pax (which means peace in Latin) menu.

We begin our meal with assorted Italian bread. But isn’t bread an accompaniment, I ask? “No,” says chef Fabio. “No Italian meal can begin or can be complete without it.” The taste of the oven-fresh bread is enhanced with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Next comes the salad (Carciofi).What makes it special are the small Taggiasche olives. This variety from northwest Italy is considered among the best in the country. The salad is a tongue twister due to its combination of flavours.

For starters, we try the Carpaccio Di Polpo Con Sedano E Carotine (Dh75). The fine slivers of octopus are smooth and easy to chew, and what’s more, they’re well cooked and do not leave a fishy after-taste.

Eating a pizza halfway through a meal may sound strange, but chef Fabio insists we should not give his creation a miss and what lands on our table is the Pizza E Calzoni (Dh65). So what’s special about this pizza? For one, it has a fine crispy crust which is moist. Then there’s the chilli oil which gives the pizza a fiery punch.

However, what grabbed my attention is the Tortelloni Al Granchio (Dh85) – a seafood dish. The creamy lobster sauce wrapped around the crabmeat makes the dish tasty. Next we try the Tagliatelle Ai Funghi Porcini (Dh80) – a mushroom preparation. Blended in a creamy sauce, the dish imparts a rich and earthy aroma.

For our mains we try the Branzino Alla Griglia (Dh155) – a Greek seabass delicacy. The fish is nicely grilled, leaving it crispy on the outside while moist inside. The other mains – Tagliata Di Manzo All’ Aceto Balsamico Invecchiato 10 Anni (Dh195) – is made with thin slices of US-certified black angus sirloin. The medium done steak is succulent and almost melts in your mouth (unlike other jaw-breaking experiences while chewing steaks). You can literally taste the iron in the juices as you devour the meat.

We end with the Flan Al Cioccolato Caldo (Dh52), a dessert made from Belgian chocolate. The flan is stuffed with a melted dark chocolate and served with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. The combination of hot chocolate and chilled ice cream is what makes the dessert stand out, bringing the fare to a delightful end.

DETAILS:

Meal for two: About Dh300

Location: Pax, 24th floor, Dusit Thani hotel, Sh. Zayed Rd.

Call:04-343 3333