The cycle rickshaws that weave through New Delhi's narrow lanes have long been scorned by authorities for congesting India's capital city's already fierce traffic.
The creaking carriages crawl alongside luxury sedans, book hawkers, horse-drawn carts, hulking buses and cows.
In this city and the other quickly modernising capitals of South Asia, governments have called the rickshaws backward, embarrassing symbols of the Third World.
Now, however, in a time of $7-a-gallon fuel in New Delhi and growing concerns about pollution, environmental activists and transportation experts are pushing back against rickshaw critics.
And rickshaw cyclists are seizing the moment to tout the virtues of their trade.
“My rickshaw is my life. It's very cheap for my passengers,'' said Saurabh Ganguly, a 27-year-old rickshaw cyclist.
He observed a knot of traffic where about 50 rickshaw cyclists were jangling their bells, pressing their horns and zigzagging past buses belching plumes of black soot.
“We don't even pollute,'' Ganguly said. “We should be allowed to survive.''Survival has been tenuous for bicycle rickshaws.
Last year, New Delhi banned them in the old walled neighbourhood known as Chandni Chowk, one of the capital's most ancient and crowded shopping bazaars, as well as on main roads.
While the ban has not been aggressively enforced, rickshaw cyclists say they often have to pay bribes to keep working.
An international non-profit group, the Initiative for Transportation and Development Policy, challenged the ban in India's Supreme Court recently, saying economic and environmental conditions have made rickshaws more necessary than ever.
“We must save the cycle rickshaw drivers. Look at the soaring fuel price hikes,'' said Nalin Sinha, programme director for the group's New Delhi office.
“These bikes are wonderful alternatives. They provide an affordable, smoke-free choice,'' Sinha said. “But unfortunately, when the whole world is talking about the environment, we in South Asia are talking about ‘development'.
We think we are better if we have hordes of swanky cars.''
There is anecdotal evidence that ridership has increased in some South Asian cities as customers look to save on transportation costs. Sinha said his group is studying the issue.
New Delhi's Centre for Science and Environment is also pushing for the court to overturn the ban in Chandni Chowk.
The group has pointed to increases in the city's pollution and in the number of children with asthma, blaming the growing number of motor vehicles.
India's economic boom is adding nearly 1,000 cars a day to the capital's streets.
“We should be building bike lanes to provide the rickshaws a humane driving area. Fuel prices are only getting higher.
"We have an alternative in front of us,'' said Vivek Chattopadhyaya, the centre's pollution researcher. “If we keep banning them, we will regret this in future.''
Some activists in India cite the increasing number of bicycle rickshaws being used in cities such as London, Paris, New York and Washington, often in neighbourhoods with congestion and heavy foot traffic.
Governments have welcomed the rickshaws as environmentally friendly alternatives.
There are an estimated 600,000 bicycle rickshaws in New Delhi serving an estimated 4 million customers. Trips range from one to six miles.
The rickshaws — many festooned with flowers and tricked out with paintings of cartoonish Bollywood starlets and cricket stars — usually charge less than 50 cents a trip.
In Bangladesh's traffic-clogged capital of Dhaka, where there have been widespread protests over the rising prices of rice and fuel, rickshaw cyclist Shamsul Haque said business has never been better.
“There has been a turning point suddenly,'' said Haque, 25, a father of two who moved from a rural area to get a job as a rickshaw cyclist. “Our customers know we are cheap and very friendly.''
Some government officials have a different view. “The rickshaws are popular in the walled old city like Chandni Chowk, but they can lead to large amounts of congestion,'' said Pawan Khera, secretary to the chief minister of New Delhi.
“It's also not so easy for them since there are so many different kinds of motorised traffic on the roads.''
Khera said cycle rickshaws will always have a place around the city, but perhaps only in certain areas. New Delhi, meanwhile, is working to bring down pollution by expanding the metro rail system and requiring new buses to run on compressed natural gas.
On a recent day in Chandni Chowk, rickshaw cyclists could be seen sweating and straining as they conveyed passengers through the city.
Amid the chaotic lanes lined with sellers of Rajasthani slippers, fresh lime soda and incense, a few sari shoppers loaded stacks of wedding clothes on to one rusty old rickshaw.
Their fare would be a quarter of what it would cost to drive or take a taxi.
“We do a proper job for everyone,'' lamented Mohammad Avip, 35, a rickshaw cyclist nearby. “Why does the police and government harass us so?''
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