Parochial she is not - Masaba Gupta's latest bridal collection is raw and real

Masaba Gupta is no shapeshifter. Unafraid, vocal and extremely individualistic, she stands out, refusing to fit in. From setting style and aesthetic benchmarks through her fashion collections that are instantly identifiable yet speak a universal language to creating a make-up label that is coveted for its desi-cum-cosmo appeal, she has created a fashion and beauty brand that not only has the legs to win an endurance race but the articulation to write its own rules. Paradoxical, complex and yet lucid, Masaba is all about the unsaid who is creating an indelible print on the tapestry of urban India with her non-vernacular approach towards fashion and beauty.

Soon after launching her second bridal collection, the designer, entrepreneur, artist and mother-to-be speaks to BRIDE about pursuing dreams, managing expectations and courting the unknown in high heels.

Excerpts from an interview:

Please tell us about your latest bridal collection.

The latest bridal collection has something for every bride. It defies all stereotypes, is an exquisite blend of modern and traditional, and it delves deep into nostalgia. It reminds me of the time when our parents while dressing up for weddings would mix and match outfits and accessories that were already there in their wardrobes. They did give much thought to whether they looked coordinated or not. What you saw was a mélange of colours and cultures. It is that spontaneity and variety which runs through this collection. The proof of this is the colour spectrum.

The collection boasts of a wide variety ranging from purple and olive to reds and ivory and more. So there is something for every kind of bride and what’s special about ‘The Masaba Bride’ is that the embellishments make a bold statement. The silhouettes are very simple and traditional, we don’t want to get into too much experimentation. We knew that we wanted to have the collection wearable first. The bride should feel like she is able to be herself in it and be comfortable in it.

And what according to you are the highlights of the collection?

The tissue pieces from the Khubani Ka Meetha range, the different chudidar sets with colours, the whole ivory range is very special. It’s made keeping in mind the ivory and the beige bride. Somebody who likes to keep it very subtle. The other highlights are motifs inspired by tropical flora and fauna. I don’t think that these motifs are typical of what you see in a bridal collection. There are a few Jaals and single statement motifs such as Pineapple, Berry Bel, Haath Pankh and Gul Jharokha. You also see a lot of world and global motifs that come into a very traditional set-up.

Your first bridal collection was a super success. Did you feel the pressure of expectations while working on the second collection?

I did not feel any pressure going into a second collection, in fact it was more of a learning. I think the success of the collection is a long journey and really depends on the factor of how many people are actually aspiring to buy it or land up buying it. Otherwise what tends to happen is that we easily get impressed by Instagram impressions and by what people are saying and also by the general engagement. But it’s important to remember that eventually pieces are made to be sold. And your sale is the benchmark of success of your collection.

Do you believe stars and celebrities are essential to ensure Indian fashion gets its share of attention?

I think the clothes have to be good and then celebs as well as regular people will both flock to the collection to get their hands on it. Of course celebrities are important as they are ideal vehicles to get your message across to a wider audience. But eventually the pieces have to also speak for themselves and should be easily accessible. There is no point in making beautiful lehengas and putting them on a celebrity if you don’t have the capacity to sell them or people don’t know where to find them. So it’s very important to have a good mix of aesthetics and accessibility.

What can Indian fashion designers do to find global acceptance?

I think Indian fashion designers should stop looking for global acceptance to begin with. We have been extremely over impressed by the west for a very long

time now and I think if we want to really find success in the west we have to go in a very unapologetically Indian way to the west and not in a watered down version. I think it’s easy to say that ‘oh we want to enter this market and change the aesthetic for it’, but the only thing is that you have to be cautious that if you go with the position of strength and say that this is who I am as a brand, anybody will lap it up. Sure, there is a consumer to be kept in mind and consumers across the world are very different but it’s very important to make sure that if you are an Indian brand you go with wearing India on your sleeves to the west.

You are a designer and an entrepreneur, but does economics override aesthetics these days since you are responsible for the success of your business as well?

I think economics will take care of itself if you are true to your aesthetic, without being arrogant about your aesthetic. One thing is to say that this is who I am and this is the kind of work I do and this is my output as a creative individual. The other is to have a reality check of whether it is working or not, this is where people and brands falter. They lose their grip over reality about what’s working and what’s not. So it’s important to have a reality check time and again, not just from outside but also within your team and keep learning.

I believe in finding a balance between the two. The economics and the aesthetic have always had to be balanced and there are times where I do things which are slightly more heavy on the commercial aspect and I also do things which are heavily creative which actually feeds the business sometimes. So it really has to be a balance and you have to be very aware of how people are perceiving it. That I believe is extremely important and not to be delusional about your stand as a creative individual.

The USP of Masaba, the brand, has always been the torchbearer for the modern woman looking to make a bold fashion statement but it is clearly moving away to focus on luxury wear inspired by India’s royal heritage. What compelled you to do so?

I think that a modern Indian woman herself today has evolved and I think that she is somebody who has actually become more and more rooted to tradition. I think tradition has long been seen as something a bit archaic and something that is also a bit regressive but I don’t think so. I think it’s important to understand that India’s heritage is also very modern. If you see kings and queens and important public figures from way back, they were very modern in their own way, at least when it came to fashion. I think that’s what we are trying to say and sure maybe an old school Indian queen has not shown cleavage but today you have women who are becoming increasingly aware and comfortable of their bodies so I think we will always be a mix of what modern India wants with a very clear grip on the culture and the roots that India offers. It was something that I saw within a lot of people themselves.

Younger women today are embracing India more than they are embracing the west. Secondly, they are embracing everything that their grandmothers did or had. They are delving into their grandmothers’ treasure chest and seeking inspiration in what they find that was old school Indian. Replicating this steady shift that is happening within the consumer, we too as a brand decided to offer them just that. Luckily for me, as we launch our jewellery collection, this shift has been very organic. I am noticing that more and more women are curious to know more about the clothes and jewellery they are wearing.

For instance they want to know if the pearls used in the jewellery are natural or imitation, if they are natural, then are they Basra or South Sea. I find this very interesting as it means women are not merely investing in pieces impulsively but in pieces that they genuinely like and connect with, pieces that they identify with. That is a significant shift.

You are going to be a mother soon. Does the prospect overwhelm you or excite you. Please share your feelings.

I don’t think I am overwhelmed by the idea of becoming a mother. Having said that, I know that I am going to be caught off guard and I have been caught off guard many times in my life, and I have learnt how to wing it. That’s how I am preparing myself for motherhood as well. Also, I don’t think any amount of talking to people or getting advice or going to classes can really prepare you and especially when I know what kind of mother I don’t want to be. I think it’s better knowing what kind if mother I want to be because I believe I have a pretty great template at my home in the form of my mother for motherhood. But I plan to really take it as it comes.

Will you be finally taking a break from work?

I will not be taking a break perse but I will be focusing a lot more on the baby for the time that it needs focus on but the idea is not to completely shut myself from work. I get a lot of joy from my work and I am also somebody who understands that the business is on an upswing right now and that I need to give both equal attention but there is no question compromising either or and both roles will need equal attention.

And finally what are your plans for the brand?

We have a very heavy quarter coming up with the launch of our fine jewellery collection. You will also see a lot more collection as we go but we are also piping down a bit and getting our house in order, trying to make sure that the bridal collection that we have launched has enough of a runway, inventory and people that are being able to access it. I think just the softer touch is something that we are working on. We have 3 new stores that are opening up as well so we are focusing on that and at this part we are just scaling up and keeping our head down and continuing to work.