Woven art that will bring returns: Celebrating the Oriental Kashmiri silk carpet
Handmade and steeped in history, Indian Kashmiri carpets are considered luxury investments
“A carpet is not unlike art, in fact it is a piece of art, and collectors will tell you it’s a passion. Once you start collecting carpets you can’t stop,” expresses Imran Malik, who inherited his love for kilims and carpets from his forefathers. He adds, “A carpet is not only appreciated for its beauty and craftsmanship, but also for its utilitarian value. It is the only art form which can be used; utilised to bring warmth to a room, a richness to your interior spaces and a finesse to your home. Children can play on it, families can sit on it and share a meal, and pets can curl up on it, whereas a painting or a sculpture can only be admired and gazed at.”
Hailing from the Kashmir valley in India, Malik’s forefathers have been antiquity and carpet dealers for generations, introducing Oriental Kashmiri carpets to the Indian states of Bengal and Sikkim, with boutiques in the cities of Kolkata and Darjeeling. “I’ve spent my childhood playing on carpets, watching artisans bring them to life knot-by-knot, and yet every day I discover and learn something new about the craft and the technique,” reveals Malik, who has stores located across Indian cities, with his flagship store in New Delhi.
Centuries of woven history
The origin of the Indian carpet can be traced back to the region’s indigenous Harappan culture of the Indus Valley. Being a country ruled and invaded by dynasties and foreign incursions including the Aryans, the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Kushans, Mongolians and the Mughals, carpets from India come with various notable influences.
The trade in rugs appears to have flourished during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; they were a significant part of Mughal court ceremony and went on to become central to the trade with Western Europe, controlled by the Portuguese, Dutch and finally the English. Today many period Oriental carpets made in India from the seventeenth and eighteenth century can be discovered in Museums across Spain, Portugal, and England.
When it comes to Kashmir, we follow the Iranian art of carpet making. In Kashmir we are still not exposed to machines for our carpet making, so Kashmiri carpets have an edge as far as hand-knotted carpets are concerned.
While Rajasthan is the epicenter of Indian rug manufacturing, it is the carpets from Kashmir that wear the Taj or crown so to speak and hailed, as some of the world’s finest. Kashmiri carpets are often called ‘Indo-Persian’, ‘Indo-Isfahan’ or ‘Indo-Herat’ or more popularly ‘Oriental carpets’.
“Indeed, Iranian rugs are the finest in world, nothing beats an Iranian rug. Turkish carpets too are exceptional, especially Hereke carpets as they are very long lasting. When it comes to Kashmir, we follow the Iranian art of carpet making. In Kashmir we are still not exposed to machines for our carpet making, so Kashmiri carpets have an edge as far as hand-knotted carpets are concerned,” believes Hanif Mir who is one of India’s leading carpet retailers under the brand Trans Asian Exposition. Mir is fourth generation from a family in the carpet retail business.
The Kashmiri loom
Kashmiri carpets are made on a loom composed of two horizontal parallel wooden beams, the design of which has not changed much despite centuries of weaving. The warps are stretched tight between the beams, held apart by stakes. The interlacing of the weft is done by two subsidiary beams in vertical looms. The Heddle bar (one of the beams) holds the alternate warp creating the warp separation. Short lengths of the thread or yarn are tied to wrap chains to form the pile. Tightly wrapped yarn is passed by hand to create loops which are termed as knots. After continuous looping the warps are brought into a single layer with weft twinning. There are different types of knots, but as Kashmir follows the Iranian system, when it comes to silk carpets it makes use of the knot termed as Sehna, or Sinneh, or single knot instead of the ‘Jufti knot’, which is the double knot used in woollen or cotton rugs. Hand knotted carpets are locally known as "Kal baffi" in Kashmir.
Every hand-knotted Kashmiri carpet is a long labour of love; it’s a meditative practice that requires undivided attention and keen eye for detail. It takes anywhere between a couple of months to a year to bring a carpet to completion, depending on the size and intricacies of the design.
Iqbal Khan, a carpet weaver, and artisan from Baramullah in Kashmir shares that it is, “The Talim system of weaving which is followed by us while making carpets. The pattern is written on single strips of paper, and we read the programme which enumerates the various colours placing them in a series, unknowing of the pattern to emerge or how the carpet will turn out. Even we are in awe of the result, which is a delightful surprise to us, as we don’t know what will emerge until it finally done!”
Traditionally carpets have a weave of 20x20 asymmetrical knots per square inch, but today the craftsmanship and quality of Kashmiri carpets has greatly improved with knotting going upwards of 24x24 knots per square inch to as high as 30x30 knots per square inch.
Could take months to a year …
“Every hand-knotted Kashmiri carpet is a long labour of love; it’s a meditative practice that requires undivided attention and keen eye for detail. It takes anywhere between a couple of months to a year to bring a carpet to completion, depending on the size and intricacies of the design,” states Saqib Altaf Posh, who owns one of the oldest carpet manufacturing companies in the valley, Posh Carpets.
Mohammed Maqbool, 52, who learnt how to weave carpets from his father, has been making carpets for the past 30 years. His expertise and skill have made him one of the finest artisans in the region, knotting carpets upwards of 600 knots per square inch.
In the beginning it was just a hobby, but now it has become my main source of livelihood, weaving carpets for Posh carpets. My inspiration is the beautiful landscape of Kashmir, and the many shrines across the valley from where I get colour and design inspiration.
He proudly states, “In the beginning it was just a hobby, but now it has become my main source of livelihood, weaving carpets for Posh carpets. My inspiration is the beautiful landscape of Kashmir, and the many shrines across the valley from where I get colour and design inspiration.”
Like Maqbool, former carpet weaver, Jabraiz Sofi too learnt the craft from his father, since the art is passed down generation to generation. The 49-year-old, now quality manager at Posh carpets oversees the procurement of silk, the yarn dyeing process and even checks to see if the hand-knotting is up to the mark. “The art of carpet weaving is synonymous with Kashmir. We believe in preserving and promoting this art till our last breath,” Jabraiz states, being passionate about both the craft and the region.
Tools of the craft
Simple instruments are used in the art of carpet making—a knife to clip the yarn, a wooden or metal comb to push the knots tightly together, shears to trim the pile, clippers to clip extra threads, a hook for symmetrical knots, and beaters for packing down the weft and rows of pile. The Oriental Kashmiri carpet can be found in silk-on-silk (silk pile and warp) or silk-on-cotton (cotton warp with silk weft). Formal and ceremonial carpets are made entirely with silk, which has exceptional tensile strength emulating Iranian patterns and designs like Kashan, Qum, and Hamadan.
When you buy a hand-knotted Kashmiri silk carpet you are promoting a sustainable lifestyle, helping the environment because there is no use of machines and so no emissions, and at the end of the day you are supporting an artisan and his family who spends months if not years making a carpet for your home.
Which brings one to the pertinent question, should one invest in a Kashmiri carpet? “When it comes to investing specifically, one should always choose a pure silk carpet and treat it well. The carpet you choose depends on the age group we are talking about,” replies Hanif, adding, “…the younger generation prefers more geometrical and architectural patterns like Qums, whereas an older person usually prefers a traditional Oriental or floral design like a Kashan. Ultimately and eventually the value of the carpet depends on the condition and the lifespan of the carpet.”
An ideal investment
Imran divulges, “A carpet is not a necessity but a luxury. And at the end of the day, we all know luxury is recession proof, so any time is a good time to invest in a carpet. As the world keeps digitising there is merit in sustainable living; when you buy a hand knotted Kashmiri silk carpet you are promoting a sustainable lifestyle, helping the environment because there is no use of machines and so no emissions, and at the end of the day you are supporting an artisan and his family who spends months if not years making a carpet for your home.”
Tips to keep your carpet in top condition
1. Cleaning and carpet care
Brush your carpet with a carpet brush to dislodge any debris stuck between the fibres on both sides. Vacuum once a week in the direction of the pile, but don’t vacuum the fringes. Snip any loose threads on the carpet's surface with a pair of scissors. Carpets made of natural materials like wool, cotton, and silk are affected by dampness. Moisture trapped in a carpet can lead to moth infestation and mildew growth. If the carpet gets wet during the monsoons, it will degrade faster. Dry it in the sun but make sure it is in the shade and not under direct sunlight.
2. Curling and Creasing
Curling can be caused due to packing and shipment, rolling, storing, or the weight of the furniture. Allow time for the base of the carpet to relax once it is laid. If it still curls, try curling the carpet in the opposite direction to unwind. Prevent creases or wrinkles by laying a clean, thick, and dry towel over the wrinkled region, and iron over the towel a few times in the pile direction.
3. Spills and Heavy weights
Food and drink spills are common and must be attended to as soon as possible. Liquid spills should be blotted with blotting paper, paper towel, or a cloth to absorb the liquid. Scoop solid spills with a spoon. Do not rub a carpet as it will cause the stain to go deeper into the fibre. Blot or remove stain from the edges to the centre. Silk carpets can be spot washed with shampoo and water but ensure you dry the area completely, until the spill has dried, blot or clean it up or opt for professional cleaning. To avoid crushing or flattening the piles, use protectors under heavy furniture.
4. Storage
To store carpets roll them tightly width wise and keep them horizontally. Roll from the side which is opposite the pile's direction, or the rough side. Once rolled tie the carpet with a rope or yarn to prevent unrolling. Use silica gel pouches to safeguard against moths and bugs. Ensure carpet is sealed to prevent any humidity or water and ensure it is stored in a well-ventilated, dry, or climate-controlled location.
- The writer is a journalist based in India