A taste of Afghanistan in every bite: Zora Omarr's culinary journey from Kabul to Dubai, via Munich

Dubai: Nestled on the sidewalk of Dubai’s busy Jumeirah Street, is a cosy two-storeyed restaurant, Lemar Afghan. Right from the moment you step in, everything about the restaurant – from its colours to the paintings on the walls and the traditional seating – transports you to the ‘land of Pashtuns’.

This is exactly what Zora Omarr, the visionary behind Lemar envisioned, when she set out to open the restaurant in Dubai, in 2023. It had to be more than just an Afghan restaurant.

In an exclusive interview with Gulf News, 54-year-old Omarr spoke about her journey – how she took her love for Afghan food from her mum’s kitchen and turned it into a successful food business, with restaurants both in Germany and Dubai.

Omarr and her family moved to Munich from Kabul, when she was just 12 years. “We grew up in Germany, our family moved there in 1982, because there was war in Kabul,” she told Gulf News.

Though she was far from her country, her mum’s food kept her anchored in her traditions. There was no food better than home-cooked food.

“She always cooked for us… we would always eat homemade food,” she said.

Without any formal culinary education or training, in 2001, Omarr who was 31, married and had two children, by then, decided to try her hand at starting a business – a restaurant serving the food she knew best.

“We started our first restaurant in München, in 2001,” said Omarr, who later opened more restaurants around Germany.

The food served at Omarr’s restaurant was inspired by the food she ate at home. Her main mantra is to keep the dishes simple, authentic, and close to her roots. Soon, the restaurant had regular visitors, and it grew in popularity. Omarr wanted more people to explore the flavours of authentic Afghan food.

“The recipes we use at the restaurant are all my mama’s, like the pumpkin Kabuli pulao, the spices we use, everything…. My brothers and I are very hands-on when needed, and we know all the recipes by heart,” she said.

“I have a brother who runs the Lemar restaurants in Germany. We used to have quite a few restaurants in Germany, but right now, we have only one. Later, we visited Dubai for a vacation, and I dreamt of opening a restaurant in this city,” she added.

“I work with my whole family, my two brothers and sometimes my mother,” she said.

“Our top-selling dish is the Kabuli Pulao, made with lamb, paired with a side of spinach. The Kabuli pulao is a traditional Afghan dish, the national dish of Afghanistan, made with aromatic rice, tender lamb, carrots, and raisins, bringing together a rich combination of flavours that our guests love. It’s a hearty, comforting meal that truly represents Afghan cuisine. The lamb is slow cooked to perfection, making it a favourite,” she said.

Beyond kebabs and Kabuli pulao

While Afghan cuisine is often known for the succulent kebabs and flavourful Kabuli pulao, a rice dish made with lamb and special spices, Omarr is passionate about introducing diners to the lesser-known gems.

“While everyone knows about kebabs and Kabuli pulao, there are some hidden gems in Afghan cuisine that I think more people should try,” she said.

“First up is Aushak – these are Afghan dumplings filled with leeks and topped with a rich tomato-based meat sauce and garlic yoghurt. It’s like comfort food with layers of flavour that just don’t quit. Most people think dumplings are only a thing in East Asia, but Afghan dumplings bring their own unique flair, and they’re just as satisfying,” she explained.

“Then there’s Mantu, which is another type of dumpling, but this one is usually filled with spiced ground beef or lamb and topped with a split pea and yogurt sauce. The combination of flavours – savoury, tangy, and rich – really makes it stand out.

“Borani Banjan is another dish that flies under the radar. It’s a layered eggplant dish cooked with tomatoes, garlic, and topped with minty yogurt. It’s a vegetarian dish, but so hearty and flavourful that even the most dedicated meat lovers will be impressed.”

Beyond the menu

Her commitment to authenticity extends beyond the menu. "The ambience at Lemar is unique," she added.

“At Lemar in Dubai, you’ll notice the same attention to detail that we’ve perfected in München. The warm, inviting ambience is key. We use handcrafted Afghan décor, traditional textiles, and a mix of rustic and modern design elements.... My younger brother, who has a gifted eye for interior design, incorporated shades of blue inspired by the Afghan Lapis Lazuli stone. This stone, symbolising wisdom and harmony, plays a key role in creating a serene atmosphere. We wanted the restaurant to feel like a bridge between tradition and modernity, so every design element, from textures of the chairs and tables to lighting, reflects Afghan heritage, ensuring our guests feel immersed in the culture from the moment they walk in.”

However, a lot of hard work goes in to keep the show running in two cities.

With staff brought in from Afghanistan to help in the kitchen, Omarr remains the head chef at both the branches in Munich and Dubai. She travels between the two cities, overseeing the kitchen and the daily work.

“I don’t spend all day in the kitchen, but when I do step in, it’s to add the magic. The cooking staff prepares everything beautifully, but I make sure to finish each dish with my personal touch. Whether I’m in Germany or Dubai, I’ll sprinkle a bit of cardamom here, maybe a pinch of saffron or cumin there. It’s those small details that turn a good dish into something extraordinary. My time in the kitchen is about elevating the flavours, making sure everything that leaves is a true reflection of the Lemar experience,” she added.

It could not be done without her family’s support, Omarr added.

“Alhamdulillah [Praise the Lord], managing the restaurant in two countries while taking care of my family has been challenging but rewarding. My son works in the corporate world, and my daughter is studying in München. They’ve each taken their own paths in life, and I couldn’t be prouder. They’ve always wanted me to be happy and have been supportive of the hard work we’ve put into the business. In fact, they even worked in the restaurant for years when they were younger, learning the ropes and helping us grow,” she said.

Through Lemar, according to Omarr, she is not just serving food; she's sharing a piece of Afghan culture with the world.

To other women looking to venture into the food business, she has a message. “I want to remind you that failure is part of the journey. It is humbling and it also gives you the focus to perfect your craft. When you embrace failure as a stepping stone and not the end, it builds resilience. Put your ego in the back seat and learn that each setback sharpens your skills, strengthens your mind, and brings you closer to your goals. These moments of growth are what lead to success, not the other way around,” she added.

“Success is merely a symptom of persistence and learning. Stay committed and let nothing hold you back.”