Creative glamour

It was more like raining fashion, than cats and dogs, in the monsoon month of August in Mumbai recently. Every nook and corner that you turned in downtown Mumbai spoke fashion. After all, India's biggest style spectacle was on. Designers, celebrities, buyers, models, choreographers, make-up artists, hairstylists, technicians et al. gathered at the second Lakme India Fashion Week (August 6-12). Though the actual reason behind the event was not entirely fulfilled, the glamour and glitz reigned as usual.

The Fashion Design Council of India organised the event which was run on similar lines as the global fashion weeks held in different cities like New York, Paris and Milan. The whole idea revolved around pret-a-porter (ready to wear) lines, wherein the entire fashion industry came together on a single platform to promote designs and sales. "This, then, becomes beneficial for both, the designer and the buyer," said Sumeet Nair, executive director of FDCI, explaining that the entire focus was to create a breeding ground of new trends, wherein the industry members could meet and exchange ideas.

A group of 44 designers from across the country participated in the event. Every day had a mix of showings with various themes. One show could focus on subtlety, whereas another would rock your imagination. A blend of upcoming and established designers worked to make a mark. Although nobody won any prizes, their selections on the shopping lists of London store Selfridges, Raymond's upcoming boutiques Be, Tata's Westside, Melange etc. won them more – recognition and sales.

Designers had to either display their pret collections, which would range between Rs 800 and Rs 10,000 (Dhs 65 to Dhs 800) or their diffusion lines, which would be from Rs 10,000 to Rs 30,000 (Dhs 800 to Dhs 2,400). Apart from the exhibit stalls, the week was filled up with interactive seminars on the business of fashion, along with hair and beauty workshops. Not to mention the late night parties and the glitterati that followed.

The lines bore all – subdued contemporary, funky, sporty, chic, classic, stylish, flamboyant and more. The colours of the season could not be tapped as a whole array was on display. Fabrics ranged from the popular chiffons, silks, cottons, to the khakis, crepes, lycras, leather and fusion. Garments were cut in all styles and shapes.

There was no particular style or routine that ruled the week. Everyday brought something new, but not entirely different as these were not couture shows. "In pret collections, one cannot express entire creativity," said designer Monisha Bajaj, who had begun her foray into pret lines at the fashion week last year. "I realised that it was working for me and I had a lot of orders booked. This way you reach out far."

Although most of the collections were wearable, which they had to be, fashion trivia wasn't far behind. Painted faces, beaded headgears, weird props, unusual hairdos and funky moves accompanied the models on the ramps. "It's an art," said designer Rahul Khanna of Cue. "The drama has to be there." The music was rhythmic and even weary at times.

The 48 participating models though, looked refreshing under the guiles of make-up. Designers Aki Nirula, Savio Jon, Anshu Arora Sen and Monisha Jaisingh were much talked about. The established ones, namely Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Rocky S. and Manish Malhotra won an interesting audience of Jaya Bachchan, Hrithik Roshan, Preity Zinta, Ameesha Patel, Sabeer Bhatia and Parmeshwar Godrej, among others.

This year's fashion extravaganza, though, didn't attract too many top designers and models. Whereas designers like Abu-Sandeep and Ritu Beri spoke of not having time, top models were unhappy with the pay scales. The buyers this year also seemed limited and business was lower than last year's fashion week in Delhi. "The concept is still new and has to be given some time," defended designer Anamika Khanna. "It's a slow process."

"I think there should be a greater focus on fresh talent," said Sangita Kathiwada, owner of Melange, a famous boutique in Mumbai. "Also, as a buyer I demand clarity in pricing, product knowledge and wish to be assured that the work will reach me on time and in the quality it was presented."

Nevertheless, the fashion fraternity has got together and is trying. With most fashion designers from the West looking towards India for inspiration, and with the likes of Ritu Beri and Rohit Bal shining in the West, fashion is undoubtedly a booming business for all.