Right turns in Tehran

If you are planning a holiday in a neat and clean city, with open-air cafés and an exciting nightlife, stop right here. On the other hand, if your idea is to feel the pulse of a metropolis that reflects the essence of a 2,500-year-old nation, then read on.

With a population of 15 million crazy motorists and dour policemen in Soviet-style fatigues, a holiday in Tehran may seem a daunting prospect. But once there, you will see how easy it is to gel.

In Tehran, as in many other places in Iran, you will find a level of hospitality that is truly remarkable. Whether it is guiding you personally to the nearest internet café or teaching you the complicated procedure involved in dialling international numbers from public booths, total strangers will always have a few minutes for you.

With the bad press their country usually gets, Iranians seem obsessed with what outsiders think about them. Hence, the urge to please.

A dirham buys you 2,500 Iranian Rials. However, you will hear people talking more in terms of Tomans, (IR10=1 Toman).

First impressions

If you are flying in, you will probably be landing at the massive Imam Khomeini International Airport. It will immediately be clear to you that there aren't that many foreign tourists coming to Iran. The visa queue is more likely to be filled by businessmen from countries such as Russia, China, India and South Korea.

The airport is located a good 45km from the city, and is connected to it by an excellent highway. The acres upon acres of parched land, snow-capped mountains and government housing projects along the way remind you of scenes of Eastern Europe shown on TV.

Traffic

Nothing you have seen before can prepare you for the marvel that is Tehran traffic. If you are inside the car, traffic can be a tourist attraction! Seatbelts are unheard of and side view mirrors are barely used by motorists.

You may see these motorists as dangerous fools or very talented drivers. That depends on your point of view. I thought they were artists.

For instance, the taxi guy dropping me to my hotel went about a 100 metres ahead of it, on a busy one-way street. Realising his folly, he casually braked, put the gear in reverse and started backing up, effortlessly tackling incoming traffic without so much as a look of concern on his face. And he dropped me off safely in front of the hotel!

Places to visit

Arguably, the most interesting places in Tehran are the museums. The National Museum of Iran is a must-see (entry IR60,000/Dh23). It showcases Iran's history like no other place in the country, with many of the exhibits excavated from the archaeological sites at the ancient city of Persepolis.

The National Jewels Museum (entry IR30,000/Dh12) is another big draw with foreign tourists. Located below the head office of Bank Melli Iran, it is packed with priceless jewels since the time of the Safavids. This is where the fabled Koh-i-noor diamond would truly belong.

For a sombre experience, head to the Martyrs Museum (entry free). Most of it is about the Iran-Iraq war. Photographs from the front, short biographies and personal belongings of those who fell in battle — letters to fiancés, bloodstained uniforms, revolvers — are a testament to the futility of the eight-year war in which more than a million people were killed on both sides.

Diagonally opposite this museum is the huge building that once housed the US embassy in Tehran. The momentous events there in 1979 had the world glued to its television screens. As you walk along, you can see striking anti-US and anti-Israel murals and slogans on the embassy walls.

Another interesting place to visit is the Niavaran Palace complex, which used to be the Shah of Iran's residence. It has now been converted into four separate museums (tickets, priced at IR 30,000, have to be bought separately for each).

The most interesting of these four is the Sahebkerameh (the King's Special Office). It gives a good insight into the Shah's daily life. The exhibits here include a gold telephone and gold revolvers.

You can't miss the strange inverted-Y shaped building (top) in Tehran. The Azaadi monument was built in 1971 to commemorate 2,500 years of the Persian empire. The gardens around it are a popular place for families to relax. It is certainly worth a visit.

Mobile mascot

The Paykan is to Iran what the Ambassador is to India — the car you most associate with the country. A remake of the Hillman Hunter, it has been produced in Iran since the 1960s, until production was finally stopped in 2004. Still, almost every third vehicle you see on the streets of Tehran is a Paykan. You can buy basic spare parts of this highly eco-unfriendly (but very sturdy) vehicle even in groceries in Tehran!

Bollywood calling

Iranians have always been known for their films. But
of late, Hindi movies have become quite popular in Tehran and almost everyone seems to recognise "Bollywood" actors such as Shahrukh Khan and
Aishwarya Rai.

Go there ... Tehran

From the UAE
There is a wide range of airlines, such as, Emirates, Air Arabia, Mahan Air, Etihad and Iran Air flying to Tehran from Dubai, Sharjah and Abu Dhabi.

Emirates flies daily to Tehran from Dubai.

Etihad flies three times a week to Tehran from Abu Dhabi.

How much
Emirates fare: Starts from Dh600, inclusive of tax.

Etihad fare: Starts from Dh740 inclusive of tax.

— Information courtesy: Al Tayer Travel Agency

Visas
Citizens of many nationalities get a 7-day tourist visa on arrival at the airport, for $50 (Dh185). For more details, contact the Iranian consulate in Dubai.

Where to stay
There are many budget and mid-range hotels, especially in southern Tehran, close to where most tourist attractions are. Among these, the old-fashioned Hotel Naderi ($20/Dh70)is recommended. In top-end hotels, the Laleh International ($120/Dh440) is the most popular.