Peaceful and pretty Pretoria

Pretoria never figured in my list of places to visit on planet Earth. Frankly, I didn't even know it was the capital of South Africa until we got there.

But having gone to neighbouring Johannesburg, we somehow drifted to Pretoria, known as Tshwane by the locals.

"Hey, welcome, welcome to Tshwane?" greeted the public relations executive of the Sheraton Pretoria in his sing-song South African accent.

"Tshwane," I blinked.

"Hey, it's your first visit? Oh, you know it by its old name," he laughed and ushered me into the lobby saying even today many tourists prefer the old name Pretoria.

A wee bit embarrassed, I nonetheless thanked him for enlightening me.

The mind experiences a sense of calm and smiles come easily as one enters this garden city blessed with a warm, pleasant climate all year round.

Is it because one can enjoy the marvels of nature or is it the fascinating blend of history, culture and nature? Or is it because it a safe haven compared to its neighbour? I have no answer.
 
As first-time visitors, we opt for the regular tourist track.

Our coach glides along broad, tree-lined roads to the Voortrekker Monument, perched conspicuously atop one of the many hills that surround Pretoria.

Here Perpetua, our unassuming and ever-smiling guide, zealously describes how this memorial was built and takes us through the history of the Great Trek of the Voor Trekker (pioneers) to escape the restrictions of the British government.

Besides its imposing presence, two other elements make this monument worth visiting - the historic marble frieze in bass relief depicting the story of the Great Trek and the Heroes Hall, a focal point where you see the words "Ous vir jou Suid Afrika (We for thee, South Africa).

Breathtaking

From the top of this monument the view is breathtaking and it was well worth climbing the 110 steps.

We encountered more history at the Union Buildings, home to a group of memorial structures, all majestic in their own way.

Today the main Union Building with beautiful gardens and sweeping lawns serves as offices to the President and some ministries.

In front of this stands the Delville Wood War Memorial, built in tribute to the South African troops killed in The First World War.

The Pretoria War Monument and a couple of statues and sculptures nearby serve as historical landmarks.

History faded into the background as we reached downtown, driving along Church Square in the heart of Pretoria.

Stretching 26 km, Church Street claims to be the longest urban street in the world.

Alighting at Church Square, we are assailed by a cacophony of noises - humans, animals, birds.

It is a bustling square teeming with shoppers, entertainers, idlers, tourists, skaters, dog-walkers - and muggers too. The mix is intriguing albeit colourful.

Jostling through the crowds, I cast a curious glance at the buildings around this famous square.

The Palace of Justice, a typical Italian Renaissance style structure, is impressive. So is the statue of Paul Kruger that occupies centre stage.

Period buildings on the south side of the square are symbolic of the past but hardly arouse any interest.

As we drive back on Church Street we see a cemetery called Heroes Acre containing the graves of many prominent people.

Further ahead is the South African Reserve Bank, the city's tallest building.

Perpetua, a freelance guide, is an interesting conversationalist. A chat with her is a learning experience.

She waxes eloquent about the numerous museums - African Window, Air Force Museum, Geo-Science Museums, Kruger House, Pretoria Art Museum until you interject and ask about the game parks that tourists flock to see.

"Oh, there are so many covering thousands of hectares and hosting hundreds of species of game, bird species, herbs and grass types," she remarks and then quizzes me with a naughty smile.

The wild

"What is the oldest natural monument in South Africa?"

"It is the 1,000-year-old wild fig tree at the Wonderboom Nature Reserve," she answers, noticing my blank expression.

One cannot visit all the reserves and sanctuaries during a short stay but what Pretoria offers within the city is wonderfully rich.

Gardens and parks abound and on the lengthy Church Street we counted at least three lovely parks that soften the urban jungle somewhat.

However, what impressed me most was the profusion of Jacaranda trees that line many streets.

As I marvelled at their beauty, Perpetua urge me to return in October when masses of fallen purple blossoms create a lilac blanket on pavements.

"Oh, it's a sight to behold," she raved. Any wonder why Pretoria is also called Jacaranda City?

And all along while we travelled we listened to an incredible mix of songs from the 1960s to the '90s on Jacaranda 94.2, a popular radio station.

A drive through Pretoria's suburbs is quite fascinating. Sunnyside, Arcadia, Hatfield and the like are well laid out areas housing embassies, shopping centres, vintage homes and quiet lanes.

Most of the homes have electric fencing around the walls and huge dogs sleep lazily within the compounds.

Modern

In contrast, downtown Pretoria resembles any modern city complete with skyscrapers, high-tech shopping centres, cafes and boutiques, art galleries, restaurants accompanied by the usual hustle and bustle of people and traffic.

The Marabastad area north of the city is a bit tacky but colourful and here the contrasts are striking.

Young students in jeans and older folk in traditional attire rub shoulders while modern clinics stand cheek by jowl with 'muti' shops of the 'Sangomas' (traditional healers).

There's even a mosque and a Hindu temple in this area.

Another day, another experience. I boarded the first green double decker bus that came my way.

I don't remember how many rand I paid, but the 45-minute drive took me through areas such as Vermeulen, Makhubela, Clifton and Nellampius.

I got off at a place that looked inviting, picked up pringles and pretzels along with cold ginger juice and sat on one of the roadside benches.

This gave me a ringside view of the passers-by: executives in formal wear, locals in colourful traditional attire, school kids in smart uniforms, fruit sellers, backpackers from all over, policemen, even an African drummer and not surprisingly, a sari-clad Indian woman.

Hunger satiated, I took a lazy stroll, window-shopped and amused myself by taking in the sights and sounds until I reached a tiny street where little kiosks enticed tourists with African souvenirs.

Wooden animals and masks, marble figurines, colourful cloth paintings, exotic dry fruits and delicious African savouries - you cannot help but fall for the temptations.

Money changes hands and the charming curios and edibles are mine.

The hefty saleswoman flashed a broad smile before giving me a free key chain.

Time to return

My time had come to return to the hotel, pack up and leave for the airport.

As the traffic noise subsided and we drove in the twilight, I took in nature's splendour all around and was once again filled with a sense of calm.

I must have smiled too.

And I wondered why Pretoria had never figured on my list of places to see.