Dubai Watch Week highlights Louis Vuitton’s limited edition Escale models

For master watchmaker Michel Navas a watch is a work of art. Growing up in a watchmaking family, his destiny seemed almost preordained. Yet it was his innate talent and love for watchmaking that saw him land one of the few coveted positions at Audemars Piguet in 1980 after he completed his studies. There he worked on pioneering wristwatches, including assembling the world’s first tourbillion wristwatch in 1986. After Audemars Piguet, he went to work for Swiss watchmaker and artist Gérald Genta in 1987 where he crossed paths with Italian watchmaker Enrico Barbasini with whom he formed an enduring and influential creative partnership—the foundation for what would launch in a few years later in 2007
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

A high concept laboratory of complicated watchmaking that Vuitton acquired in 2011, La Fabrique du Temps has become a playing ground for pioneering watches that challenge the heights of watchmaking technology and artistry. Its manufacture is now based in Meyrin, Geneva, Switzerland. Since its launch, La Fabrique du Temps has made incredible leaps in haute horlogerie, especially since Navas and Barbasini were brought in to run it.

“I have worked with many famous brands in Switzerland and La Vallée de Joux and I know the spirit of these brands and wanted to imbue La Fabrique du Temps with the same philosophy alongside my partner, Enrico,” says Navas. “I wanted to retain the feeling of a family business, a human scale company. If you come to visit La Fabrique du Temps you will understand these words. We have just 25 watchmakers, five designers and several engineers and dial makers. We all work under the same roof in a spirit we want to spread.”

La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is now a cornerstone of Louis Vuitton’s horological ambitions. Over the last few years, it has launched and relaunched fine watches for the high-end market. Examples include the brand’s beloved Tambour and Escale wristwatches that were revamped and relaunched in 2024 to cater to the upmarket. It has also attained the Poinçon de Genève, an independent standard of watchmaking that marks one of the oldest and strictest levels of watchmaking. In 2024 it also launched the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize to recognise and support independent watchmakers. Additionally, under its roof, Louis Vuitton also brings together the creative, almost mythic independent watch brands of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth—both of which have been revived by La Fabrique du Temps.

The mission of La Fabrique du Temps, explains Navas, is one that applies both virtuoso and innovative savoir-faire to create exceptional timepieces. It does so in a manner that continually seeks to elevate the molds of convention with creative audacity.

“As a watchmaker, alongside my partner (Enrico), we have a lot of ideas and we want to offer the client what they miss, what they need on their wrist,” explains Navas. “Of course, with Louis Vuitton, we are a young company in the watch industry. We can offer something different with some boldness, daring watches. But inside the watch, we have all the tradition, my legacy and my heritage as a watchmaker. But outside through my designers, we offer something different.”

A case in point is the Escale à Asnières, the French luxury house’s first pocket watch launched last year.

An example of Louis Vuitton’s creative genius, with the watch, explains Navas, La Fabrique du Temps wanted to see how far it could go in terms of high watchmaking.

“It is an example of two worlds: the world of high watchmaking, which is very mathematical and the automatic movement, which is very romantic, poetic and theatrical,” he explains. “People know with this watch how far we can go in terms of watchmaking, that we can create unique pieces and simple pieces with two hands and very complicated watches with our dream team in house. This is our spirit.”

Moreover, the watch pays tribute to the storied legacy of the Maison, particularly its historic workshop in Asnières, France. The name of the watch translates to “stopover in Asnières”.

On view during Dubai Watch Week were La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s two new limited edition Escale models featuring dials with ornamental stones of turquoise and malachite—yet another example of the artistic vision of the maison.

The watches celebrate nature’s gifts through the rare métier of ornamental stonework, with the 40 mm case incorporating a seamless, monolithic ring created from the same mineral as the alluring stone dial. Meanwhile, the lugs, bezel, caseback and crown can be found in platinum, enhancing the natural splendor of the turquoise and malachite elements.

“As a watchmaker, I can bring the complicated movement inside, but I need the other métiers to add harmony,” explains Navas. “These watches are rich in terms of art, and this is what I love. It is the first time we add such stones not just on the dial but on the mid-case.”

Indeed, wearing a natural stone with such magnificent colour on one’s wrists has an almost talismanic quality. Akin to jewelry watches, these pieces, which were unveiled during Dubai Watch Week, have offer a unique sculptural and timeless effect.

“From what I understand, Malachite is adored in the Middle East,” adds Navas.
It is true, Malachite, due to its natural beauty and locations of deposits in the region, has been mined in the area since prehistory, dating back to around 4,000 BCE.

Navas emphasises the sense of shared passion and community at La Fabrique du Temps—it is this spirit that generates a unique creative ambiance.

“At lunch, watchmakers, designers and engineers eat together,” he says. “All the métiers work together in unison, each to the best of their skill.”

The Maison also has master craftsman in the decorative technique of Guilloché, a rare métier that has no school.

“While at Louis Vuitton we are young in the watch industry, allowing us to create with boldness, we always respect our high watchmaking heritage,” adds Navas. “Working at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton offers a big, big chance, not only for the watchmakers, but for all the métier inside.