Patek Philippe restates its horological might

In a major flex, Patek Philippe has unveiled three new timepieces that are aimed at connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. The three watches include a platinum split-seconds chronograph with a grand feu enamel dial (Ref. 5370P), a yellow gold version of the classic perpetual calendar chronograph (Ref. 5270J) and a first of its kind minute repeater tourbillon (Ref. 5303R). The Ref. 5303R is flies in the face of the more understated watches Patek Philippe is known for. This is the first Patek Philippe Grand Complication with a minute repeater that displays the hammers and gongs dial side. The openworked dial also ensures that the tourbillon is visible dial side.

This timepiece is based on a reworked design of a special edition minute repeater tourbillon wristwatch made for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019. The first 5303R was a revelation (pardon the pun) as it was the first time that the brand had shown off the tourbillon – usually hidden at the back of the watch movement – prominently on the openworked dial. While the special edition was limited to just 12 watches, the new 5303R joins the regular production line-up.

The watch has a rose gold case that is 42 mm wide and 12.13 mm thick. It has a polished bezel and white gold inlaid panels with a floral motif on the flank and lugs, the same motifs are repeated on the white-gold slide used to operate the minute repeater. It is priced at 650,000 Swiss Francs (that’s about AED2.5 million).

The Ref. 5370P was first presented in 2015 in a platinum case with a black dial. A real connoisseur’s watch, it was the first split-seconds chronograph from the brand that featured an in-house movement, the Calibre CHR 29-535 PS. This year, the Ref. 5370P is presented with an upgraded new Grand Feu enamel dial. The watch has a 41 mm polished platinum case and satin-brushed flanks and is fitted with a concave bezel. The highlight, of course, is the shiny blue Grand Feu enamel dial with white gold Breguet numerals. This Grand Feu (great fire in French) dial is made by applying layers of enamel on an 18K gold dial plate and then firing it in an oven at very high temperatures. A delicate process, this is repeated several times to get a glossy dial that is durable and pretty.

The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre CHR 29-535 PS. A traditional manual-winding chronograph movement, it has a dual-column-wheel control (two column wheels since this has a split-seconds function) and a horizontal clutch. The movement boats six patented chronograph innovations, and an additional one for the split-seconds mechanism. Paired with a blue alligator leather with a fold-over clasp, the watch is priced at AED930,000.

The Ref. 5270J is a descendant of the iconic Ref. 1518, the first ever perpetual calendar chronograph produced in series. In a manner of speaking, Patek practically owns this category having produced some of the most famous examples including the Ref. 2499, long considered the greatest wristwatch ever produced.

The current line-up includes the Ref. 5270, a descendant of the Ref. 1518, and has been available since 2018 in platinum and rose gold. For the first time, the Ref. 5270 will now be offered in a timeless yellow gold case. The 41 mm yellow gold case has a concave bezel and tiered lugs, the silvery opaline dial is fitted with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold. The watch runs Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, Patek’s first in-house chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar that was developed in 2011. Paired with a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp, it is priced at AED 595,000.