Viva Las Vegas

Talk about a desert oasis famed for its shopping and a transient population and you could be talking about either Dubai or Las Vegas.

But with all the similarities between the two, Vegas has always had something Dubai hasn't. Yes, that something is linked to tables, but not the kind that'll land you in jail. Now, the two cities have one more thing in common — Caramel Restaurant and Lounge, the celebrity haunt in Sin City's Bellagio, which opened earlier this month at the DIFC.

Bigger isn't always better, they say, and Caramel embodies that philosophy. Everything about the venue is understated, almost as an antithesis to the excess that has come to be associated with both cities the twin restaurants are located in.

The interior is dimly and warmly lit, with plush chairs inviting drawn-out meals. The terrace serves as a continuation of the dark brown woods used inside, with simply adorned round tables spaced cosily, yet comfortably apart. There is a quiet sophistication about Caramel, although the cabanas seem perfect for parties where no one worries about the decibels.

The food menu is a scant two pages, a welcome relief from the tomes that have become de rigeur in Dubai (although the beverage menu is far more extensive). That said, it features unique high-end versions of American dishes, combined from a host of eateries in America's playpen. Vegas being Vegas, there's also an element of fun to the food.

Perfect for sharing

The staff have an impeccable knowledge of the menu, and none of the options recommended disappointed. The small plates are perfect for sharing, and my companion and I started with the lobster and grilled mango tacos — four mini tacos stuffed with the light meat that was unfortunately overshadowed by the coriander that tops it before we had the black cod, where Caramel made its intentions clear. Beautifully fragrant, milky and sweet, this has to be one of the best in a city where black cod carries a distinction. Our initial hesitation with the crab bites proved unfounded — the meat was obviously fresh and of good quality and stood its own, mashed and spiced as it was in the mini burgers.

The "grand plates", or mains, are big enough to be suitable for lunch, but also not too heavy to combine with starters and sides. My companion's steak was presented New York style sliced, with the outside a perfect brown around the deep pink centre. Most unusually, my lamb shank lay on a bed of green lentils. Surprisingly, the combination worked wonderfully, with the pulse adding another textural level to the gushy red meat that needed only the slightest encouragement to disintegrate.

The highlight of our meal, however, came from the ranks of the humble side dishes — mac and cheese sticks, crumbed and fried served with the most delectable three cheese sauce redolent with truffle oil, its robust flavour present but having enough temperance to not overpower the cheeses.

The desserts were equally successful. The dark chocolate fondant was silky where it should be, and spongy where expected. The apple cobbler, meanwhile, is served in a small cast iron skillet the apples not too sweet, soft yet chewy and with just the right amount of cinnamon.

The verdict? Caramel's strength lies in its restraint. Fine dining made comfortable, this venue is bound to become a hit. Maybe even among the glitterati, like its big brother.