Sake No Hana: The real Japanese deal

Dubai: I shall be honest: I have never had an exceptional urge for a hearty Japanese meal, let alone an authentic dinner set in an appropriate backdrop of Sake No Hana in Souk Al Bahar.

So I had to be really up for the prospect of gorging on signature makis and sushis one Monday with lots of added mental groundwork, driven purely by a couple of failed ‘sushi bar’ experiments in the past.

What wasn’t also of much help was the story of my father’s particularly ‘tasteful’ experience in Tokyo from his first visit there a couple of decades ago. I knew he loves his fish – all kinds and all forms – and that he doesn’t mind the occasional cold bites, enough basis for me to believe the Japanese eat what isn’t quite up my alley. The real deal, though, is that there’s more to Japan than raw fish and boiled leafy vegetables.

Initiation

Don’t believe me? Try the lobster tempura (Dh185) that comes garnished delectably with creamy wasabi (Japanese horseradish) sauce or the crispy soft shell crab salad (Dh70) served with pomelo and pomegranate.

For someone trying out this trendy Japanese lounge and restaurant for the first time, tempuras – seafood or vegetables battered and often deep fried – are always a good initiation. For me, the ones at Sake were way beyond that. There was decadence in every small meaty chunk – one light and one deep fried, but both wonderfully ‘toasty’.

Our introduction to Sake No Hana, though, started with Edamame (Dh24), a traditional ‘hot small eats’ of real soybeans with seasons. A couple of fresh mocktails (Dh40) arrived as well – a Tokyo Cooler made of peach, lemon grass and a hint of lemon mixed with elder flower syrup and a Miyazaki Passion made of passion fruit juice, coconut, hints of lime, vanilla and chilli sugar. Rejuvenating is the word for both.

My first real test began when Khine Thini Win, the Assistant Restaurant Manager from Myanmar, waltzed down the kitchen with a plate of two ‘cut roll’ sushis – a Spider Maki (Dh48 for five pieces) and Spicy Salmon Maki (Dh54 for six). Win assured the former was only a crispy soft shell crab made with asparagus, mango and tomato that resembled a spider and there was no real reason to panic. The latter made of salmon, cucumber and a secret spicy sauce though tasted much better.

Time for the main course and Win got us an exotic looking Gindara Mirin Kanzuri Miso (Dh160), a grilled black cod with Japanese spiced miso and a Tori Toban Yaki (Dh85), a more popular stir-fried preparation of corn-fed chicken with ginger garlic sauce cooked in a traditional Japanese pot.

A Kinoko Gohan (Dh30), wild mushroom cooked in rice for a truffle flavour with Horenso Gomaae (Dh28), sesame spinach with cassava chips served as the perfect accompaniment. It’s the fish that tasted exotic – the white meat amazingly soft and cured and stood out for its fresh flavour, contrary to how bland it looked.

We capped it off with a not so traditional Japanese dessert but a great Sake No Hana creation – a raspberry rose lychee ripple ice cream (Dh45) that’s based on a brownie with manjari mousse and chocolate velvet layer coated raspberry compote.

If that’s not all at this hybrid Japanese lifestyle destination from Hakkasan Group, you must try the Zensai – a culturally rooted tradition synonymous with ‘small bites’ offering a selection of Japanese street food and cocktails. I have kept this bit for another time.