Review: Visit Venice without leaving Dubai

Venice is a city that creates heartaches of varying kinds.

 

There is a slow flaming of the senses when you hear a snatch of that song that played when you glided under the Rialto. You remember that simple but sumptuous dish of fresh pasta, and the four course dinner you didn’t understand because the waiter’s startling blue eyes got in the way of the explanation.

 

There are memories of beautiful bridges and handsome gondoliers, silent fogs and placid tides.

 

You ponder over that perfect espresso in the square, and you dream of canal-side bistros and meals in marble palaces. Every photograph urges you to return...   

 

If nothing else, you have heard the tales, and long to get there.                    

 

So here is a (time) travel tip. If you are willing to forego selfies by cupolas and palazzos - and the magnificent art and architecture that the city is famed for - visit Segreto at Madinat Jumeirah for a taste of Venice.

 

And we mean it, literally.

 

The grand Venetian cuisine dates back across centuries, and has several dozen specialities, among them the musical sounding mołeche, bigoli, baicoli, crostoli, and frittole.

 

But a great culinary tradition is hosted on its streets, where tiny but thriving little eateries called baccari serve up special treats called cicchetti (chi-KET-tee). 

 

At Segreto’s newly refurbished terrace, Specialty Chef Manuel Polin has very ardently created swish versions of these cicchetti (just hear him speak of it).

 

There are lightly batter-fried seafood and vegetables served in paper cones, chicken drumsticks coated in almond slivers, and variations of bruschetta and regional cheeses.

 

The stars are the soft shell crabs, marinated prawns, and home-cured snapper, while a trio of Halal cured meats on a stick - duck speck, goose salami and marinated beef - simply steals the show.

 

In desserts, the dark chocolate parfait poached in hot espresso gets top billing.  

 

The terrace opens at 3.30 pm, so you can get an early start.

 

Pricing is simple and ideal for couples and groups alike – Dh 50 for each dish, Dh 125 for any three, or Dh 260 for any six. 

 

In living up to its Italian name, Segreto has a few secrets, spread across its many levels.

 

The terrace is laid back enough for lounging, and the annexe is ideal for a quick lunch, but it is at the fine-dining restaurant downstairs that you can treat yourself to authentic and almost awe-inspiring dishes from Northern Italy.

 

Also on the cards are special menus for Valentine’s Day and Easter.

 

The crew are friendly, and the Italians among them can treat you to a quip or two (ask which part of Italy they hail from).

 

Segreto overlooks the waterways of Madinat Jumeirah, and whenever an abra passes, it will not be amiss to sigh. And smile over Venice.