When it comes to dining at Rhodes Mezzanine, the answer is an unequivocal yes, writes Eduan Maggo, who sampled an updated menu
Lady Gaga's video for Alejandro is all military chic, thanks to her friends at Armani and photographer Steven Klein, but it's left many underwhelmed. Some have questioned whether she's pushed her creativity as far as it can go, while it's even been suggested that it proves not even Lady Gaga can top Lady Gaga.
That said, one thing is certain it sure is artistic. But is it art? And if it is, in your opinion, is it a work of art in itself, or because it's by Lady Gaga?
Is it like what was said of Marcel Duchamp and the Dadaist movement – “everything the artist spits is art”?
I find myself grappling with a similar conundrum regarding celebrity chefs and the Michelin-starred fare they serve is the food really that good, or is it the name and reputation that makes us fawn over what's presented before us?
Celebrity chef Gary Rhodes has updated his menu at Rhodes Mezzanine, and I knew I had the perfect dinner companions when one asked, "Who is Gary Rhodes?"
Eclectic
Entering through the glass doors, it's easy to mistake the architectural marvel that is this restaurant for a sacred space, which, to be fair, it is to some. A reverential silence looms over the space, punctured by the sound of low conversations and cutlery on crockery. The staff man the perimeter, moving as if in an elegantly choreographed dance. They anticipate your every need ("Would you prefer a black napkin to match your dress?" Sandy was asked). Meanwhile, the well-lit space hints towards the eclectic tastes on the menu it's all very modern, with some pieces of furniture adding a bohemian feel and very white, with splashes of colour. (White is also the colour of a Gary Rhodes flagship dish white tomato soup, which is much more flavourful than a first glace suggests.)
The menu is limited, and devoid of verbose descriptions, which is refreshing evidence of a curator who'd carefully selected each piece and is confident to let the food speak for itself.
The tasting menu features smaller versions of the main menu, and from these we selected eight between the three of us. My first choice was the oyster and sparkling beverage risotto (Dh85), which is as delightful as it is unusual. The grains in the slightly creamy broth have a foamy head, offset by the slimy meat that just glides down the throat. It's rich in textures, with tiny bubbles adding yet another layer to what amounts to a sensory explosion.
A scallop island, seared and crispy, resting on leeks, finds its soup (Dh55) at your table, and the beetroot, shallot and fig tart (Dh50) with its red syrup and goat's cheese is a light vegetarian winner.
While the British are renowned for their magpie-like behaviour of taking elements from other cultures and incorporating it into their own cuisine, we weren't prepared for Rhodes' take on lasagne. He combines crab with baby spinach, and is nothing like the cheesy mess you'd find in a trattoria. Yes, it has the layers you'd expect, and is creamy like the seafood variation, but is lighter than any pasta dish you've had. Even the delicate crab meat isn't outshone.
The John Dory fillet (Dh130) got all-round approval, with the fragrant fish's firm flesh holding its own against the chewy shiitake mushrooms. The traditional Italian risotto made another appearance, this time bringing with it a French influence — snails — in the beef fillet (Dh155) that had Sandy speechless.
From his British pudding plate (Dh65), the bread and butter pudding has become Rhodes', uhm, well bread and butter, and continues to live up its reputation, flanked by jam roly poly and sticky toffee pudding.
The chocolate fondant (Dh65) was blissful, but I was glad I'd selected the fruit bruschetta (Dh65) three fruits on lightly toasted bread that rounded off an eclectic meal.
So, is it art? Quite simply, yes. This is an exhibition that works as a whole, with the different items complementing each other. What's more, you can even be your own Happening in the glass walled centre private dining room.
Brunch with Barney
They're calling it the Purple Brunch. InterContinental Dubai Festival City is hosting a special performance by the beloved cartoon character and a family-themed brunch on July 23. Children will also get a chance to enter into a raffle draw to meet Barney in person. Tickets will also be given out to the best dressed Barney impersonators. Brunch costs Dh150 for children and Dh75 for adults. Call 04-7011128
Rhodes Mezannine
Sign up for the Daily Briefing
Get the latest news and updates straight to your inbox
Network Links
GN StoreDownload our app
© Al Nisr Publishing LLC 2025. All rights reserved.