Amala amazes with all-you-can-eat Indian

Having lived in Dubai for six years I've developed high-end hotel fatigue. Put me in a brand new, opulent space and while seven years ago the beauty, the detail and the scale would have floored me, today I'm all just, "That's nice". My visit last week to Jumeirah Zabeel Saray was different, however - I was ‘snap-a-picture-of-the-opulent-gold-taps-in-the-bathroom-to-send-to-my-mum' impressed. This is, after all, where the decadent Anil Kapoor party scene in Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol was filmed. And it is that bling in real life.

So, after an ogle around the lobby, we sauntered to Indian restaurant Amala, where majestically high ceilings are punctuated by regal columns, and the details - from the tiles to the art - are ornate without being fussy. Given the nights are still balmy, we opted to sit on the terrace, and the second we sat down on our wide chairs our waiter, Ben, who felt like a friend by the end of the meal, was there to tell us about the concept.

Amala has two major price points - you can order a decadent seafood-filled set menu for Dh390, or you can simply pay Dh255 per person and order an unlimited amount of food from the four-page à la carte menu. My dream scenario. Why? Well, I think Indian food is best eaten in large groups so you can sample a range of dishes. But not here, we could just ask the waiter to tell the chef to bring out enough of his best dishes for two.

The chef, Aman Manoj Kumar, is from North India, and his menu is defined by one major belief, that spice has its place, but shouldn't be so strong it conceals other flavours. Appetisers included impossibly large Tandoor prawns; perfectly textured Potato cakes with green peas and black cumin; a juicy Pan fried scallop with a piquant bell pepper sauce and, finally, a Mugh kathi kebab, or roti with shredded chicken, mushroom and a flavoursome mango chutney. We washed this all down with a cucumber and green mango cooler - officially our favourite new drink - and were ready for mains.

The chef had chosen four curries for us, as well as two tandoor meats. The Angus beef boti kebab sung of cloves, while the green mango paste-basted Kayree lamb chops converted even my non-lamb-loving dining companion. The Butter chicken was exemplary, as was the aromatic Vegetable jalfrezi and the Rogan josh - which resembled a slow-cooked stew, the meat was so good - but it was the Goan jingha curry that stole the show, coconut milk provided comfort but didn't dominate the rest of the aromatics.

Curry over, we somehow managed to fit in a cooling Pineapple and mint sorbet and sago dessert, a perfect ending to the best Indian meal we've had in Dubai. Partly because of the pretty surrounds, partly due to the succulent meats and singing spices, but also because it's just so darned fun and decadent to close the menu, sit back, and just say, "The chef's greatest hits, please!"

Tasty trio: High-end Indian 

Armani/Amal

Walking into the sleek Armani Hotel (another Mission Impossible location) sets the tone for a stylish evening at this Indian spot. Book a seat on the terrace, which boasts great views over Downtown Dubai and The Dubai Fountain, and enjoy the range of curries and tandoors that marry traditional cooking methods with innovative blends and flavours.
Location Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Downtown Dubai
Timing 7pm-11pm, daily
Tel 04 888 3888

Chor Bazaar

Named after the famous, bustling Mumbai market, this Indian spot serves up a range of Indian cuisine and dishes that will work for those with even the most delicate of palates. We're particular fans of the lamb biryani.
Location Ibn Battuta Gate Hotel, Jebel Ali, Dubai
Timing 7pm-midnight, daily
Tel 04 444 0000 

Masala

Make a day of it and drive an hour into the desert to get to this gorgeous restaurant. The live tandoori terrace in the middle of the cavernous space is a good place to learn about the craft of grilling, the food is some of the best in the city and the concrete-chic decor is intimate and cool.
Location Bab Al Shams, near Dubai Endurance Village
Timing 12.30pm-3pm (4pm on Fridays) and 7pm-11.30pm, Monday-Saturday
Tel 04 809 6194