Run for Xterra cover

When last you heard from us, we were driving our yellow Nissan Xterra to Salalah after spending the night watching turtles hatch on a beach in Ras Al Jinz, Oman.

If you have a week to spare and enough money for cheap air fare from Dubai, jet off to Salalah — it's over 1,000 kilometres from Muscat, at the southern point of Oman. However, although the drive is beautiful, it's arduous and time-consuming. Some parts of the road are barely better than wadi-bashing. Driving to Salalah needs you to go through the Empty Quarter, a daunting, hypnotic and barren stretch, so make sure you have enough supplies. Our fabulous Xterra (Roxy, we have named her) had no problems, though, and handled the bumpy "under construction" road with ease. And then the sparse terrain transforms into thick, green forest in the space it takes to turn the corner and before we know it, we are in the Dhofar region of Oman.

Imagine thick, green, undulating hills, coconut palms, breezy white beaches and fruit stalls at every corner and you'll have a pretty clear picture of Salalah. It's a perfect weekend escape from the UAE heat and looks and feels as good as any exotic destination — but without the price tag.

Setting up camp on the beach near the Crowne Plaza Salalah was a welcome change from previous campsites near Muscat. Omanis in the South are less curious and more jaded than those in the North and therefore we weren't approached or bothered by the usual fishermen or guides wanting a chat!

A grand tour

The next morning, Yousuf, our fantastic Omani guide from Sumahram Falcon Tours, led us through quaint market streets and Arabic coffee shops to "the blowhole". As its name suggests, the blowhole is a series of craggy openings in the cliffs where waves are forced upwards, breaking into giant sprays, much to the glee of picnickers. We then headed into the mountains towards Yemen, where Yousuf gave us a demonstration of how the Bedouin collect frankincense from the trees there. If you have a sharp stone and six days to wait so you can collect the resin from the trees, give it a go! We stopped by his mother-in-law's house for lunch (a delicious event involving fresh sardines and chilli). Unfortunately, she was a bit shy of the cameras and hid in the room next to ours until we had left!

We were then off to the Queen of Sheba Harbour, where a scenic lagoon greets the sea from an expanse of white sand. It's a birdwatcher's paradise, with flamingoes lazily walking through lilies and falcons soaring overhead. Camels, donkeys, cows and sheep also gather at the water's edge. Check out our latest webisode and photographs of Salalah on our blog www.arabiatoafrica.blogspot.com

After a great day with Yousuf, we had to say goodbye to Roxy, the Nissan, as she was loaded into a container to be shipped to Djibouti. Everyone had warned us against Yemen but when our insurance stated it wouldn't cover our equipment — or us, for that matter — through Yemen, our decision was made. So for the airport we headed and a quick two-hour flight later, we were in Djibouti, waiting for the Xterra to arrive. We had been told it would take seven days. But 12 days later, we were still waiting. Thankfully, the Sheraton Djibouti turned out to be understanding hosts and we stayed yet another night.

For those who have difficulty placing Djibouti, it's a tiny country on the east coast of Africa, just above Ethiopia. The travel books call it "a tiny country with big ambitions". Debatable. Every afternoon, the whole nation succumbs to a lazy stupour induced by a leafy twig stimulant called qat (pronounced "gat"), imported from Ethiopia. Even the president, we heard, does not see anyone after noon, when he has his qat fix.

It's a difficult country to be a visitor in, especially because the tourist industry there is still in its nascent state. The nation consists of Djiboutians and French, German and American military, which guard the Gulf of Aden. Martin and I seemed to be the only tourists visiting at the time. But if you fancy a bit of adventure and have plenty of patience, check out lac Assal — a huge salt lake and the lowest point in Africa, being 150 metres below sea level. If you're in the area between November and March, renting a boat and going whale shark watching is a treat — sometimes up to 30 are seen at once! And the diving isn't so bad either. Check out Lagon Bleu Dive Company, a reliable and friendly option.

Having done Djibouti to death, our Xterra, with the roof tent still intact, cleared customs (with hidden costs) and we were on our way to Ethiopia! See you on the road!