Eco beauty warriors

At long last, natural beauty has shaken off its dowdy image. In fact, it’s had a glamorous revamp thanks in part to A-list ambassadors like Miranda Kerr and Gwyneth Paltrow, who owe their glowy complexions to whizzing up half an allotment in their juicers and applying a dollop of 100 per cent pure skincare. Suddenly treating your skin from the inside out is on trend and everyone wants their own eco beauty warrior. Knowing where the ingredients in your pot of face cream came from and even how they were farmed scores you extra points. So it’s hardly surprising that global demand for organic toiletries is expected to reach $13.2 billion (Dh48 billion) by 2018*. “These days more and more people are seeking out alternatives to synthetic products because they are concerned about the impact of chemicals on their bodies,” says Dr Elaine Robinson, head of training at luxury super natural beauty house Dr Hauschka. And there are really good natural products out there now. But even so, can they rival the most hi-tech skincare on the market?

When to go green

Sensitive skin, in particular, has the most to gain by going green. “Our skin absorbs 70 per cent of what we put on it,” says Margo Marrone, founder of The Organic Pharmacy.

“Inflammation is often the result of harsh fragrances and chemicals in conventional skincare. Alternatively, natural ingredients are biologically compatible to the skin, so you avoid irritability. Instead of chemicals, you infuse skin with vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants, which have remarkable powers to heal, protect, repair and nourish.”

Recent advances in biotechnology have spiked the interest of anti-ageing junkies, too. One such technology is ‘chromatherapy’, which uses ingredients that absorb natural light but reflect it back in a different colour. “We’re particularly interested in tonka bean extract as it reflects a blue light out of the skin, which blurs the look of wrinkles, making them less obvious,” says Dr Pauline Hili, founder of organic skincare brand Nourish. “It’s especially good for Asian skin because it helps to neutralise its often sallow, yellow undertones.”

She has included the bean in her Radiance Rejuvenating Peptide Serum, (Dh111, www.lovelula.com free international shipping) to ramp up the glow of even the most lack-lustre tired looking skin.

“Stem cell extraction [stem cells from plants used in creams to stimulate the skin’s repair functions] is another burgeoning technology,” says Marrone. For The Organic Pharmacy’s Gene Expression Lifting Serum (Dh560 The Organic Pharmacy Al Wahda Mall, Abu Dhabi), stem cells were extracted from grapes to help protect against and increase skin’s tolerance to UV rays.

As more and more research is done into the impact of pollution on premature ageing, city dwellers may also benefit from going green with their skincare. When it comes to ingredients, all eyes are on kale as the new ‘superfood for skin’, Dr Hili says, “This leafy green family is supercharged with the highest levels of antioxidant vitamins K and E, and has been found to contain high levels of isothiocyanates. These plant nutrients can help to eliminate toxins from the body and neutralise the free radicals produced by pollution before they damage the skin, causing wrinkles and pigmentation.”

Try Eminence Organics Citrus and Kale Potent C & E Masque (Dh310, NYLA Method) to experience the purifying effects.

Another good source of antioxidants is rose, which contains hefty doses of both vitamins C and E, as well as being an effective anti-inflammatory. Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream (Dh103, www.basharacare.com) can soothe stressed, sensitive skin.

Discover organic make-up

Before, if you wanted a ‘free-from-nasties’ make-up range it meant limited shades and textures that left a dull finish to 30 plus skin. But now there’s no compromise and the latest organic make-up is arguably just as covetable as any other designer brand out there. Leading the charge is New York make-up artist Rose-Marie Swift, whose sleek brand RMS is loved by celebrities and models alike.

“Several years ago, I began to experience some health issues that affected me both physically and emotionally,” says Swift. “After extensive tests, I found out that my blood contained toxic levels of heavy metals including aluminium and mercury as well as high levels of pesticides and other chemicals. I was surprised when the technician asked if I worked in the cosmetics industry.

“Until then I had no idea that cosmetics could contribute to serious health issues. That’s when I set out to create a line of organic colour cosmetics that look gorgeous and are healthy for the skin.”

Not only organic, her acclaimed range including the cult multi-tasker Lip2Cheek (www.net-a-porter.com, Dh136) uses wild-crafted ingredients for its pigments, oils, butters and waxes. “Wild-crafted ingredients are hand-picked where plants naturally grow rather than harvested through traditional farming techniques so there’s complete respect for the environment,” she explains.

When only science will do

Retinol (a vitamin A derivative) remains the gold standard for improving the look of wrinkles. While some natural brands champion the use of rosehip oil as nature’s answer to vitamin A, dermatologists disagree.

“Retinol has been referenced in over 44,000 clinical articles so I know it’s the most effective anti-ageing ingredient out there,” says Dr Rachael Eckel, consultant dermatologist at the Renew Clinic and board certified by The American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine. “Rosehip oil simply doesn’t have the same effect.”

Another product where natural alternatives don’t yet make the grade is sunscreen. Mineral versions, which sit on the skin’s surface to protect against UV rays, leave a chalky residue. Until there’s a better solution, take a ‘best of both worlds’ approach instead. Sisley Broad Spectrum Facial Sunscreen SPF30 (Paris Gallery, Dh603) uses chemical filters to protect against UVA and UVB rays, but also contains alkekengi’s calyx, an exclusive plant extract that forms a shield around your skin’s DNA to protect against wrinkles and pigmentation.

Even the most ardent natural beauty lover will admit there’s still a way to go. But in labs across the world, advances in botanical beauty are under way. And natural ingredients, be it in skincare or make-up, no longer mean compromising on your anti-ageing results. “So prepare to be converted,” says Marrone.