The iconic Indian designer on how he managed to dazzle Hollywood and Bollywood A-listers
Dubai: "Jewellery —those are the first things you grab in a fire," declared Hanut Singh, celebrity designer to Hollywood and Bollywood stars.
This journalist, a tad more pragmatic, quickly interjects, "Shouldn't it be passports first?". Singh laughs, unfazed, as our conversation takes a candid turn.
Jewellery is more than just an accessory; it holds emotion, history, and deep personal connections for Hanut whose creations have been worn by Oprah Winfrey, Meryl Streep, Kareena Kapoor Khan and more.
But beyond the glittering stones and gold, he believes jewelry should be sexy, voluptuous, and hedonistic—an unapologetic statement of confidence.
In this exclusive interview ahead of his trunk show in Dubai, he speaks about why he refuses to take design briefs, how AI lacks the human experience to create true art, and why ethical sourcing in jewelry is still a work in progress. Read on for an insightful and unfiltered look into the world of high jewelry, where luxury meets authenticity.
Jewellery is often viewed as political, symbolic, or purely artistic. In your case, what do you consider your strongest point?
Jewellery should make a statement. It should be sexy, voluptuous. It should have a point of view. It should be uniquely the design should be from the designer, uniquely theirs, not imitative or anything. Jewelry is hedonistic. It's talismanic. It's protective. It always has an emotion attached to it. People feel such an emotional connect with jewelry because, you know, it's given them birthdays and anniversaries, and it's always meaningful. You know, the thing with jewelry is it's always meaningful, and there's always an emotional attachment to jewelry.
You are self-taught. Do you think schools in some way numb your creativity?
Yes, I do believe that. Design schools fill you with a certain ideology. I don't think you can be then as expressive if you attend a school. If you're being untrained you can be less strained in the mind, as far as design goes.
In today's world, artificial intelligence permeates every aspect of our lives, from content creation to design. How do you perceive AI's influence in your field and do you fear becoming redundant?
No, I don't believe that at all, especially in the design world. AI can generate design ideas, but it can never capture your rasa [emotional essence]. You can prompt it with 'Art Deco jewelry,' and it might produce countless interpretations of Deco. However, it will never replicate my style, my DNA, or my consciousness when I'm creating a piece—my unique reference points. AI can certainly produce a piece based on a given movement, but I don't think it can embody the rasa of the individual designer.
I was speaking with legendary Bollywood poet and screenwriter Javed Akhtar recently, and he mentioned that AI has never experienced heartbreak, the loss of a loved one, or the sting of public ridicule. Do you share his perspective?
Beautifully put. As much as it can do for you, it doesn't have emotion.
Your jewelry has been worn by a range of stars—from Oprah Winfrey to Kareena Kapoor. How do you feel about that?
I feel blessed because my jewellery appeals to all ages. Oprah had specific preferences—she loves baroque pearls and linear jewelry. Kareena chooses her own pieces. She’s a class act. In the West, pop stars buy more than actors. Rihanna and Miley Cyrus have bought my pieces … When it comes to stars wearing them, it’s often a stylists’ game and they reach out to us. Who knows whether the stars themselves have good taste or not? They hire the best stylists according to their taste, and then they go with that. So the stylist is the one who's pulling off everything for them.
Do you take briefs from you celebrity clients when designing jewelry?
Never. I do exactly what I like, and if they like it, great. I don't ever get take briefs from anybody. I do exactly what I like, and if they like it great.
There's a lot of conversation about ethically sourced jewelry, right?
It’s a crucial conversation and I try to use a lot of my stones that are ethically sourced, especially when I buy them from Brazil or Madagascar mines. Many in the West, especially my dealers, are honed into ethical mining. It's much more expensive. But in India, I don't know whether they truly care. But I try my best! If I know that a certain vendor has the ethically sourced to, I will use those.
There’s also a buzz diamonds which are lab grown …
In my opinion, that whole market has crashed terribly. Even the lab-grown ones are in dire straits. Certain companies were trying to push it and make a giant global market out of it. It picked up, but badly crashed … With lab grown stones, you don’t know what you’re buying into. There are too many people doing it and you never know about the quality. Pricing is inconsistent too.
If you could work with only one gemstone for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Old mine diamonds. They’re the titan of all stones. And I’m obsessed with emeralds.
Trunk show: January 31 to February 1, 2025
Time: 11am to 8pm
Where: Jaipur Rugs, Al Serkal Venue, Dubai
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