The Kurator’s London Fashion Week SS25 round-up

London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 delivered a series of bold statements, as designers explored new dimensions in fabric, form, and the power of contrast. From JW Anderson’s architectural experiments to the ethereal beauty of Noon by Noor, the week highlighted both craftsmanship and creative vision. Here’s a round-up of the standout shows that left us in awe.

JW Anderson

At JW Anderson’s show, the design philosophy was clear: liberation through strict boundaries. With a focus on minimal materials—silk satin, cashmere, and calf leather—the collection took a reductive approach, making room for experimental proportions. Whether it was a giant bow, oversized argyle motifs, or a blanket draped as a dress, Anderson’s pieces played with volume and shape in surprising ways. His use of lace and sequins added a layer of modern prettiness to an otherwise sculptural and strict collection. The juxtaposition of skintight silhouettes with voluminous structures created a harmonious tension between control and chaos.

Ancuta Sarca

Ancuta Sarca’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection explored dualities, clashing the corporate austerity of the 2020s with the wild exuberance of the 1960s. Inspired from everyday corporate attire, Sarca reimagined classic menswear and sportswear by injecting bold animal prints and unconventional details into the mix. A standout was her collaboration with Clarks and Crocs, where deadstock Wallabees and Crocs were transformed into bold, sustainable footwear creations. Sarca’s signature upcycling practices were in full force, merging practicality with bold, avant-garde design to challenge the boundaries of fashion and function.

Noon By Noor

Noon By Noor’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled "Ray of Light," was a poetic exploration of light and shadow. Designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa were inspired by the way light transforms and reveals hidden layers within garments. Translucent fabrics and intricate textures reflected this theme, creating a collection that felt both dreamy and grounded. Silhouettes balanced strength with fragility, featuring long skirts paired with structured linen tuxedos. The result was a collection that captured the ephemeral beauty of illumination while maintaining a modern, wearable elegance.

Sabirah

Sabirah’s SS25 collection, "Lovingly Modest," was a heartfelt celebration of community, connection, and empathy. Inspired by personal experiences of love and unity, designer Deborah Latouche infused the collection with floral hues of mint, aqua, and rose, along with delicate paisley prints. Known for her modest wear, Sabirah’s pieces ranged from structured silk gowns to crystal-embellished jackets and capes, offering a fresh take on modern bridal wear. The meticulous detailing, including hand-placed crystals and embroidery, made this collection a true work of art, grounded in the values of love and unity.

Roksanda

Roksanda Ilincic once again proved her mastery of form and fluidity with her Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Set against the backdrop of the Brutalist Space House in Covent Garden, the show played with structure, featuring tailored evening wear, draped shirts, and sharp pleating. Sculptural bows and feathered fringing added drama, while flowing fabrics gave each garment a sense of movement, as though the dresses were catching the wind as they glided down the runway. The vibrant colour palette of burnt umber, pale pink, and tangerine orange further enhanced the collection’s balance of boldness and grace.

From experimental proportions to the subtle art of light and shadow, London Fashion Week SS25 showcased an extraordinary range of perspectives. Each designer brought a fresh approach to fashion, pushing creative boundaries while offering timeless pieces that felt both modern and deeply personal.