Paris Men's Fashion Week: Highlights from Dior, Loewe, Kenzo
Jones' poignant homage, Hawkin's cohesive collage and NIGO's innovative adaptation
Dior
In this collection, elegance meets utilitarian functionality at its pinnacle as Kim Jones merges the accessibility of ready-to-wear with the extravagance inherent in couture theatrics. Guided by the spirit of Rudolf Nureyev, the collection becomes a celebration of ballet's wonders. It marks a poignant homage to the artistic director's uncle, Colin Jones, a dancer who epitomized the ultimate forms of elegance. Drawing inspiration from Dior's rich archives, the collection breathes new life into tailoring, introducing fresh volumes, slits, pleats, and necklines.
Loewe
Richard Hawkin delves into the contemporary inundation of celebrity culture, blending TMZ, Us Weekly, People Magazine, social media feeds, and paparazzi shots into a cohesive collage. Departing from conventional norms, the collection embraces a diverse array of desirable characters, conveying an unapologetic and restless expression. Within a crystallized American iconography, each piece encapsulates a sense of action, whether it be the coat, suit, blouson, jumper, long cardigan, leather trousers, fatigues, or tracksuit bottoms. Biker and Combat boots, along with skater sneakers, anchor the collection. The garments intertwine, creating a sardonic attempt to assert rather than propose a look—a reflection of the collaged reality we collectively inhabit.
Kenzo
NIGO transported spectators to the Bibliothèque Nationale for the grand reveal of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. With the continued thread connecting Paris and Tokyo in his creations, NIGO showcased the innovative adaptation of a traditional tatami mat print onto overcoats, alongside his unique take on the karakusa pattern, a well-known motif in Asian fabric packaging. The collection exuded explorer motifs through duffles, multi-pocketed jackets, shearling mittens, aviators, and the signature deconstructed treated denim workwear. Drawing inspiration from school uniforms, utilitarian blazers in collarless red and green, adorned with gold buttons, added a distinctive touch.