Feast on fado and fun

When in Lisbon, enjoy traditional Portuguese music that
has Arab roots, historic monuments and romantic getaways

Set on the mouth of the Tagus River and draped across seven hills that offer contrasting views of a medieval castle, monumental squares and a massive, Golden Gate-inspired suspension bridge, Lisbon is charming.

And this charm comes from the city's laid-back atmosphere that displays a certain coolness to modernity.

Climb aboard a rattling, yellow wooden tram and wind your way from the Alfama — infused with Moorish history — to the Bairro Alto where outdoor cafés attract the high society.

Bairro Alto is filled with funky underground-style shops that offer goods decidedly different from the mainstream.

Gem of a city

Often dismissed as a poor relation, Lisbon has a rich history and unique traditions that make it stand out from other European capitals.

This monumental city is poised on the brink of a renaissance of sorts. With more tourists coming in to discover this gem of a city, it won't remain a secret for long. Now is definitely the best time to visit.

In the past few years, with the country's growing economy, Lisbonites want to go out more, have fun and spend.

Shopping is fast becoming a favourite pastime. In the elite Chiado district, the pedestrian paths are crammed with elegant boutiques offering the latest fashions and chic restaurants that spill onto the footpaths.

The locals love to be outdoors. You'll find them sitting with coffee or just taking in the atmosphere while watching the passers-by.

Romance everywhere

For romantics, Lisbon gives Paris, or any other European city, a run for its money.

It has views to die for, intimate candle-lit restaurants and parks for hand-in-hand afternoon strolls where you can see the sun set over vermillion-hued tiled roofs and the river.

Up in the Bairro Alto, one of Lisbon's hills, you'll find yet another scene. This is the place to go to for late-night dining followed by some of Portugal's famous local music, the fado.

This somewhat melancholy song style, with roots in the Arab tradition, tells tales of sailors lost at sea and their lovers waiting for them to return.

It is hauntingly beautiful and the performers are revered for their performances that often bring a tear to the eye.

With its sparkling water, the Tagus River is the backdrop for most of the city's sights.

At a mere ten-minute drive from the centre of town are three of Lisbon's greatest monuments.

Memorial for seafarers

Right on the water's edge is the soaring Monument to the Discoveries, which pays tribute to the 15th- and 16th-century seafarers who discovered half of the world in their wooden boats.

It's an impressive sight with the main figures carved out of white marble, looking out to sea.

Just a five-minute walk along the shore reveals the majestic Torre de Belem. Originally constructed 500 years ago, the rectangular tower has served as a prison, a lighthouse and a customs point for goods brought from Portuguese territories.

Today, you can go inside and see a fascinating display of history before climbing to the top ramparts to gaze at the water as it flows into the Atlantic Ocean a few kilometres away.

Providing a splendid backdrop to all this is the massive Golden Gate-style, 25th of April suspension bridge, which connects the eastern and western parts of the city.

Many areas of Lisbon seem like villages within the city, each with its own charm and closely knit communities.

Wherever you go, you'll be tempted to click photos, so have plenty of disc space. But no matter how many images you return with, none will be as great as the one that stays in your mind.

City guide

Shopping
When it comes to fashion, Lisbon is young at heart and stylish. Whether you choose branded fashions from the boutiques along the tree-lined Avenida Liberdade or Rua Garrett, or decide to prowl the highly original shops in the Bairro Alto, you'll find great gear to dress up in.

In the Chiado area, don't miss Gardenia for retro fashion attack outfits by young Portuguese designers. Designer Fatima Lopez is still turning heads with her slinky creations and has her boutique-cum-café up in the delightfully tarnished Bairro Alto.

Lisbon loves retro! Head to Rua do Norte to discover Fake Lisbon for fabbo fashions and 1970s-inspired kitsch.

Eating
Lisbon runs the whole gamut when it comes to restaurants and don't think that you have to go to a fancy place to eat well. Small, informal eating places called tascas, such as O Barrigas or Sul in the Bairro Alto, serve delicious Portuguese home-style food.

That said, there are also plenty of super-trendy restaurants with views to die for, loads of sophistication and a clientele comprising Lisbon's most chic.

Bica do Sapato, on the waterfront, is about as classy as it can get. Lisbon's only Michelin-starred restaurant, Eleven, with chef Joaquim Koerper at the helm, is set high up, overlooking the city.

Refined Portuguese dining and decor make it a must for a special occasion.

Accommodation
Restored palaces, boutique designer accommodation within the medieval fortress or ultra-modern digs on the grand tree-lined Avenida Liberdade, Lisbon offers something for every mood.

For a special occasion, book into the Lapa Palace with its historic 19th-century-style ambience, graceful gardens, award-winning Cipriani restaurant, two pools and the La Prairie Spa.

For a purely romantic time, the secluded Solar do Castelo, within the walls of St George's castle, offers an enclosed terrace complete with peacocks and Arab-style divans for lounging by candlelight.

Designed by one of Portugal's best architects, the Heritage Liberdade is sleek and spacious and attracts those who want to be seen.

Enjoy a delicious coffee at the street-level lounge, which is decked out in wood, leather and original fabrics, creating a stunning atmosphere.

The real deal

The real Lisbon lies in the medieval Alfama district with its fascinating Moorish past. Hugging the side of the hill just below the restored 14th-century castle, all the houses in this area face the sea.

Traditionally, through the centuries, this was fishermen's neighbourhood. The façades are covered with hand-painted blue-and-white tiles depicting charming scenes of fishing and boating.

As you wander in this quaint area, the smell of barbecued sardines wafts out of the crowded restaurants and into the streets at lunch time.

With the locals adept in cooking fish and seafood well and in countless ways, it's no wonder these feature on most menus.

There are no fewer than 365 ways to prepare the humble cod; a different dish for each day of the year!

Go there...Lisbon

From the UAE
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— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 3166160

Scott Adams is a Madrid-based freelance writer