Maison Bagatelle: A French cafe and more

Maison Bagatelle is a chic, modern French cafe — and a sign of things to come.

The stylish, white-and-grey restaurant and bakery, which opened on Shaikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Boulevard in Downtown at the weekend, is the first cafe to be opened by the folks behind New York’s Bistro Bagatelle. The US version is known for its French food and raucous brunches, with bubbly and sparklers and people dancing on the tables. But at the request of Downtown developer Emaar, they created a low-key cafe version for Dubai, open from breakfast to dinner.

I know what you’re thinking: Dubai practically invented the raucous brunch. Why aren’t we getting that?

Patience — a Dubai Bistrot Bagatelle, with bells and whistles, is apparently due to open by the end of the year, and running the kitchen is Tim Newton, formerly of Dubai’s La Petite Maison. Considering the following that La Petite has, we expect no less from Maison Bagatelle. The chef is currently running the cafe’s kitchen and will also run the main outlet. (By the way, La Petite fans: they close for nine days of renovations from July 20.)

So what’s he cooking up? French cafe classics, from what we saw at Saturday’s media preview, where mini versions of dishes were passed out as smooth, funky soul played through the light, bright and comfortable space at the bottom of The Address Downtown (park at Dubai Mall’s Cinema parking and walk across is our advice). Yes, there’s no Edith Piaf or Jaques Brel on the sound system, and that’s a good thing — it’s fresh and modern, and no-one’s trying to pretend we are actually in Paris when it’s 48 degrees outside.

There’s lots of truffle on the menu, from the truffle-scented popcorn (Dh16) to the honey truffle dressing in the green bean salad (Dh42), truffle mayonnaise in the wagyu beef Burger Bagatelle (Dh82) and truffled roast chicken (Dh132) on the main course menu. The salad and sandwich-heavy menu hits all the classics — salade Nicoise, endives with blue cheese (Fourme d’Ambert, to be specific), Pan Bagnat (like a Nicoise in a sandwich) and duck confit with lentils.

What would I go back and try in full size? The very American lobster roll — hunks of seafood, apple, celery and red onion bound in mayo and stuffed inside a lightly sweet roll (Dh115); the duck rillettes, topped with celeriac remoulade (Dh25, on the “snacks” menu) and any of the bakery items — there’s a selection of breads to take home, too.

They’re open from 9am for breakfast, which includes French toast made from brioche (Dh32, and it’s actually served all day), egg dishes, pancakes and crepes.