On the right wave length

Ask any African woman and she would agree that her hair needs special attention. Due to its frizzy, unmanageable appearance, continuous chemical treatment is required to keep it in place. Thuwayba Al Khateeb, a Dubai-based specialist on African hair, tells how...

It cannot be over stressed that hair needs adequate care. Some of the more common elements that harm one's precious tresses are chemicals, heat, the way we comb and brush it, and the environment. Healthy, great-looking hair is an ongoing quest that requires a regular haircare regimen.

According to studies, "Every human is born with about 100,000 active hair follicles and averages 100,000 to 150,000 scalp hair. The number of follicles will never increase. In fact, the number normally decreases by half by the age of 60," comments Thuwayba Al Khateeb, a hair specialist who is an expert on African hair and understands their needs inside out.

When Thuwayba began her own salon, called Al Maraa Al Jamilah Salon in Karama, three years ago, she did so with a purpose. "I started this salon because I couldn't find a place to do my own hair – a salon where skin and hair concerns of African women were specifically treated. Thuwayba adds, "Our hair is different. We need different products to do our hair.

"My hair was very kinky and I went to a salon here in Dubai to get it straightened. The products they used were totally wrong and it damaged my hair very badly. Every time I had to get my hair done, I had to go to London!

"That's when I thought I would open a salon that specialises in African hair. I picked up a lot of knowledge and products from America because they have much more advanced treatments for African women. I also did my training there.

"Although there are exceptions, African hair is usually coarser in texture, tighter in curl pattern, and more delicate inherently, as also more vulnerable to damage from chemical treatments.

"Because of our multi-cultural heritage, though, there really isn't any one typical 'type' of African hair. Its texture can vary from fine to medium to coarse; its curl pattern from straight to softly wavy to excessively tight; its colours from blonde to red, to all shades of browns, to black."

Hair facts
There is essentially no chemical difference in the constitution of African hair in comparison with any other hair type. It has a cuticle (the outer layer), a cortex (the middle layer, composed primarily of keratin and moisture, plus melanin, which gives hair its colour), and a medulla (the centre of the hair shaft). All these parts are identical to those of Caucasian hair. The difference lies in wave and bonding pattern. (Bonding relates to the structure of hair – the tighter the bond, the curlier the hair.)

Effects of environment on hair
Humidity can wreak havoc on African hair in its natural state. More often than not, women tend to 'relax' their hair. It makes it easier for everyday maintenance, style and control of hair. Again, humidity can frizz hair but once hair has been chemically treated, the problem is greatly reduced.

Explaining the effects of water on African hair, Thuwayba says, "Water is the biggest problem in this part of the region. Since water is harsh, it causes hair to become dry, and eventually break and fall. We did an experiment in the salon where we washed a lady's hair with bottled water for a period of six months and there was a significant difference in her hair. It became much stronger."

Styling African hair
Natural hair is easy to style because it is usually wash-and-go and you don't have to fuss too much with it. However, due to the 'uncontrolled' look of natural hair, it is not always feasible to sport hairstyles.

Braiding natural hair is a good way to style and control it. Braiding not only looks beautiful and fashionable, it is also a good way of putting damaged hair back on the road to recovery. It gives hair a rest from chemicals, styling and products.

Sometimes, hair does not grow due to excessive damage done to the hair or due to its genetic makeup. In such cases, women can opt for hair extensions.

This gives them the option of sporting many styles. There are five to six advanced methods of hair extensions which can give it a natural look.

How to use a relaxer
i When applying the relaxer to the hair, do not massage it into the scalp. It can be very damaging and painful.

* A relaxer should not stay longer than 15-20 minutes as it can have an adverse reaction on hair. Home-kits are available but, if not done properly, they are very dangerous for hair. A professional should use a relaxer to straighten kinky hair.

* Once hair has been straightened, it will stay straight till the new growth, after which it needs to be relaxed and straightened again.

* Adequate care must be taken once hair is straightened, as it is in a very fragile state.