Swiss watchmakers cut time lapse in release of new models in region

Dubai: For Swiss watchmakers, especially those answering to a premium description, Dubai is now a key stopover in their global marketing push as are Shanghai or Mumbai. So much so, the gap between the global launch of a new model and its introduction on the local market takes place over a matter of days rather than months.

So what's with this recalibration of geographies? "Ask any Swiss watchmaker as to which market is most important for his brand and the answer would be Asia — he would lying if he says it's not," said Jorg Hysek Sr, who made his reputation as a watch designer for some of the biggest names in the business and more recently set up his own company — HD3 — to create timepieces more in sync with the present.

His latest invention, the Slyde, was launched at the recent Basel gathering of the watch industry and is now being sold locally at the outlets of Ahmed Seddiqui & Sons. Only a few thousand of the Slyde, which has a price tag from Dh4,000, will be made each year.

Enhanced reach

If HD3 represents the avant-garde facet of Swiss watchmaking, other labels are taking on a more traditional route. Fortis, a brand synonymous as a supplier to armies as well as individuals, recently recast its entire channel arrangements in the region. A dedicated regional base was set up and Mahesh Shahani, its distributor partner, was brought on board as brand director.

Apart from trying to gain a committed following for its international models, Fortis is also focused on creating a line-up inspired by "Arabian" motifs. Such a timepiece, labelled Al Tayar, was launched last year and two more will be launched shortly.

"The concept and design were done in the UAE for Al Tayar and for the upcoming launches, it is a joint collaboration between our Swiss and the UAE teams," Shahani said.

Even with the new Fortis office in place, "The existing channel partnership will remain and will have an enhanced reach across the GCC. There would not be any overlap by the Fortis office as it will be a marketing entity and will not take on a distribution role.

"Fortis will use the Dubai office as a vantage point to expand market share. The channel partners will be mandated to grow the brand's sales — and reputation — with our support."

According to the retail operations at local banks as well as feedback from research companies tracking consumer habits, discretionary spending has been showing signs of improvement in the last three months. The trend is more pronounced among the high-rollers, and upscale retail outlets are reaping the benefits from this.

Enduring fascination

Within the high-end consumer durables space, watches as a category retain an enduring fascination. It is this very sentiment that watchmakers want to lock into.

This is why promoters of models such as the Slyde — as far removed from a Swiss mechanical timepiece as can be imagined — are confident they can connect with the prospective buyers here.

"There's the young generation of buyers who were truly surprised to see a product such as the Slyde come out for the very first time and that too from a Swiss watchmaker," said Hysek Sr.

"The tastes of the wealthy young in Asia are changing and the Middle East is right in the middle of the transition."

Slyde: Smart but not a phone

Nope, it does not record music or act as a smartphone. But the Slyde - a touch-screen design originating from the creative boutique of HD3 - is as close to looking like a smartphone without actually being one.

What sets it apart is that it is of Swiss origin, which until now meant substantial casings and elaborate movements. Did it mean HD3 had to scout around to get someone to make the movements for the Slyde?

"To use today's technology for high-end watches - that was the idea behind the model," said Jorg Hysek Sr. "Three or four years ago when my son joined the company, he said it was time to make something for the young generation. It made me feel old and that was the first motivation.

"Once the design was done I showed it around to movement makers and I must say I was surprised when they liked it. We are working to design special movements and especially for the Slyde.

"As to the future, the idea is to make connection between mechanical and digital movements. But that will take time coming out, say in three or four years. The development cycle is long."