Cornered in Caracas

Cornered in Caracas

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3 MIN READ

Upon arriving in Caracas, a group of UAE journalists is advised by a Spanish-speaking American friend that they should keep their luggage locked while at the hotel.

“We are staying at a hotel that is owned by the Venezuelan government and intelligence agents may search our bags in our absence.''

I am both amused and amazed to receive such an advice. Why should the Venezuela intelligence be interested in us? Are we important enough to warrant such attention? Because we are foreigners, because we are journalists?

Some government agencies, both in the 'Free World' and the not-so-free-world, do make a note of visits made to their countries by foreign journalists, whether for work or pleasure.
The curious advice that I received did convey a sense of concern that prevails in Venezuela over foreign influence, especially if the source of such influence is in Washington.

For years, acrimony has ruled American-Venezuelan relations and it afflicts the public mood as much as it exercises the officialdom in both countries.

Of course, I did nothing extra to secure my bags and I am certain my luggage was not tampered with. Assuming they did open my bags, they must have found a book about Venezuelan president Hugo Chavez. Titled The Fascist Coup against Venezuela, it contained a collection of Chavez's speeches.

The book is about a short-lived coup that toppled Chavez in 2002. Chavez later accused Washington of involvement in the coup and has remained a thorn in America's side since the revolt was reversed by his loyalists.

Chavez openly challenges Washington's power in Latin America, he defiantly rallies like-minded leaders against what he calls imperialism, he harshly condemns Israeli policies, he uses Venezuela's oil wealth to help friendly countries in the region. The Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela is a highly political country to visit.

I am in the Venezuelan capital only for about 24 hours, stopping over on the way to the Dominican Republic on a work trip, but I am eager to get some first- hand experience of life in the capital.

Joined by a Caracas-based journalist working for a European newspaper, we set out on a sightseeing tour of the city.

Excruciatingly slow

We drive slowly in the city's heavy rush hour traffic. It is excruciatingly slow. Someone remarks that Chavez is not spending oil money on improving transport infrastructure.

That's a sweeping charge. A lot of money has been spent on modernising Simon Bolivar Airport. The airport is so chic it immediately raises your expectations of the country.

Not everything is up to the mark, though. When we returned to the airport next day to catch a flight out of Caracas, we were disappointed to deal with airport staff who hand-searched our check-in baggage and spoke hardly any English.

Our American friend came to our rescue with his language skills. Venezuela needs to become more professional in interacting with visitors.

Caracas itself appears to be a pleasant place. The city has a beautiful skyline and is home to one of the largest mosques in Latin America.

Because of perceived and real threats, the Chavez government is determined to ensure order. While we were standing outside the mosque, a policeman arrived on a bike and watched us from some distance.

Upon making sure we were a friendly bunch who meant no harm to the mosque, the policeman left quietly. This can reassure visitors they are safe in the city.

Do not be seen doing things that may raise suspicion. You cannot take pictures of buildings that are important for national security.

These include the Miraflores presidential palace and nearby buildings that house troops. We learnt there was a tunnel underneath, connecting the building housing security forces with Chavez's residence.

Just when we had our cameras trained at those installations, security guards shouted at us, telling us to stop taking photos. We were taken aback by their swift reaction.

Our American friend knew how they would react after seeing our cameras. He had wanted to have some fun at our expense when he'd encouraged us to take pictures in front of Chavez's palace. I should have ignored the advice.

Shakir Hussain/Gulf News
Shakir Hussain/Gulf News

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