Making the braids better

Renowned coiffeuse Veena Shroff reveals interesting facts and styles at a demonstration of kesha shringar, the traditional Indian art of hair beautification, in Dubai


Did you know that Bo Derek's braided look in the film 10 was similar to hairstyles found on sculptures of deities from the first century BC? And that the wavy fringe worn by Wallis Simpson, the doughnut buns in vogue in the 1970s and the ever-popular chignon are all depicted in vivid detail in ancient Indian sculptures and paintings? These and other interesting facts about hairstyles were revealed at a demonstration of kesha shringar, the traditional Indian art of hair beautification, held by Veena Shroff at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, Dubai last week. Veena also displayed part of her collection of interesting hair ornaments from all over India.

Dressed in a silk sari with her silver hair tied neatly in a bun, Veena Shroff is the epitome of old world charm and grace. Yet in her outlook, the 79-year-old Indian has always been ahead of her times. In the 1940s, when it was taboo for women from respectable Indian families to even touch somebody else's hair, Veena decided to become a hairdresser.

"My love for classical Manipuri dance inspired me to become a hairstylist. But I have not had any training. For me it is a hobby through which I express my creativity," said Veena. "Initially my mother was embarrassed, but when she realised how much I loved it, she advised me to try and raise this ordinary art to a higher level. Her advice spurred me to study ancient coiffures and discover our rich heritage lying forgotten in museums," she added.

Veena became well known through a column on "traditional buns" that she wrote for a popular women's magazine in the late 40s. She was invited by director Sohrab Modi to do the hairstyles for actress Mehtab in Jhansi Ki Rani. This led to other films with famous actresses Vyjayantimala, Meena Kumari and others. "I met my husband on the sets of a film. He had the courage and open mind to marry a hairdresser in those days," she laughed.

Veena has spent months in various museums, studying sculptures and photographic archives. "I researched over 300,000 styles and picked the ones that I felt I could adapt easily. I was fortunate that Indira Gandhi agreed to inaugurate my first exhibition in 1962," recalled Veena adding that Gandhi appreciated Indian art and found time to learn some styles from Veena before she accompanied her father, Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, to the U.S. for President Kennedy's inauguration.

Over the last four decades Veena has given demonstrations all over the world, often as part of the 'Festival of India' shows organised by the Indian government. "Audiences abroad are very interested in Indian hairstyles and hair ornaments and I was even offered a job by a famous salon in France," she said.

Although she has spent a lifetime studying coiffures and has written a book on the subject, Veena has a lighthearted approach to her hobby. Her slide show cum demonstration is designed to be fun and entertaining. The sprightly septuagenarian invited volunteers from the audience and with a few deft movements of her hands and plenty of U-shaped hairpins, she reproduced the chignons, braids, serpentine coils and fan shaped coiffures depicted in her slides of sculptures and paintings from ancient Indian caves and temples.

Veena took special delight in showing how the elaborate coiffures could be created from very short hair also.

She further enhanced each style with flowers or hair ornaments from her collection. Veena made beautiful decorations from fresh leaves and flowers and showed the audience how to make innovative decorations by stringing buds on twigs.

"I do not use chemical hair products. Just a light touch of water mixed with a drop of oil will keep the hair in place. And it is better to tie the hair with black threads dipped in water rather than with rubber bands," she advised.

"Women do not have the time to do these styles everyday, but I wish they would wear them at least on special occasions because they add grace to your appearance and bearing," she reiterated.

Her appreciation of Indian art and artisans was apparent in the way she highlighted the intricate details of craftsmanship and thoughtful touches like tiny mirrors incorporated in braid adornments and perfume chambers carved in hair clips.

"I have bought these ornaments from street markets, not from antique dealers. I never cease to be amazed at the ingenuity and aesthetic sense of our craftsmen," she said pointing to the beautiful filigree work, intricate carving and innovative colour combinations on the ornaments in gold, silver, wood, ivory and other materials in her collection.

"Because the art of kesh shringar is dying, craftsmen have stopped making these and we are gradually losing a beautiful part of our culture," she lamented.

Veena modestly described her work as just a tiny drop in the vast ocean of India's rich cultural heritage. "I have no pretensions about my work. It is a nice way to spend my time. Hairstyling has given me the opportunity to travel all over the world and meet interesting people, including many good looking men," she said.

On a more serious note she added that her lifelong crusade has been to ensure that the ancient art of hairdressing, which is the most important among the traditional solah shringar or 16 beautification steps, is not forgotten.

"It is a pity that most Indian women have had the gold and silver hair adornments they inherited converted into other jewellery. I feel happy and satisfied when after seeing my work and my collection women are encouraged not to have their hair ornaments altered and even to get new ones made for their daughters," said Veena. "I appreciate the courage and initiative shown by Rashmi Panchal and Rahat Dave of RReflections in inviting me to Dubai and I am thrilled that some Dubai residents have requested me to do the hairstyles for weddings in their families," she added with typical candour.

As for her favourite hairstyle - "The simple knotted bun that I always wear," said Veena.