Approaching from the city across its clogged highways, Baghdad seemed like no other Arab city I have visited as a reporter. The new highways, the Abunawas Boulevard and the Tigris combine to form a picturesque scene. Twelve years of sanctions have tarnished a once refined, glamorous, prosperous city. However, it still struggles to retain its reputation through proud and defiant looks of its residents.
Approaching from the city across its clogged highways, Baghdad seemed like no other Arab city I have visited as a reporter. The new highways, the Abunawas Boulevard and the Tigris combine to form a picturesque scene. Twelve years of sanctions have tarnished a once refined, glamorous, prosperous city. However, it still struggles to retain its reputation through proud and defiant looks of its residents.
U.S. threats to launch a new military campaign have revived old demons and the future of the Middle East looked uncertain. I was embarking on a journey that has all the elements of a thriller.
My TV station decided to send me to Iraq to cover a story no one knows how will unfold. Media persons congregate in the makeshift press office provided by the Iraqi Ministry of Information. Reporters, journalists and cameramen follow UN arms inspectors in their missions with the hope of getting a scoop or an exclusive interview.
Hiro Ueki, the spokesman for Unmovic and the IAEA in Baghdad provides in his weekly briefings a daily wrap-up of the inspectors' activities, but declines to give more details saying, "I cannot go beyond that". The very serene and friendly Japanese faces the daunting task of answering a barrage of questions about activities kept away from reporters sniffing out anything unusual.
But it was Iraqi presidential advisor Amir Al Saadi who impressed the media with his fluent English and excellent knowledge on the issue. His sound bites are rerun on all TV stations. He is undoubtedly the new rising star of the crisis. The man in charge of the Iraqi weapons programme has had a brilliant career.
With Iraq handing over the list of scientists associated with the country's chemical, biological, nuclear and ballistic missile programmes, the issue seems to have reached a very crucial stage.
Chief UN inspector Hans Blix and Mohammed El Baradei, who oversees the International Atomic Energy Agency, are working on the modalities of conducting interviews abroad. Many believe the process would spark a confrontation between Iraq and the U.S.
Under the 1441 "mined resolution" as described by the Iraqi officials, inspectors are to speak privately with scientists and personnel associated with Iraq's weapons, and are permitted to take them abroad for interviews. Lt. Gen. Hossam Mohammed Amin, head of the Iraqi National Monitoring Directorate, reiterated the position of Iraq that it will not impede the process but added that his country considers the interviews abroad "unnecessary. The resolution warns Baghdad of "serious consequences" if it does not cooperate with the UN disarmament process.
Inspectors were allowed back into Iraq after a tough UN security resolution was passed calling on Iraq to show unrestricted, unconditional cooperation with the inspection teams.
Iraqi officials kept saying that the inspections "have been intrusive and extensive and sometimes aggressive". But they seem embarrassed with what they call "an attempt by U.S. and British politicians to put pressure on the inspectors".
The Iraqis submitted a 12,000 pages declaration of its ballistic missile, chemical, biological and nuclear programmes. While the Americans have dismissed the Iraqi declaration, other Security Council countries maintained that they are not in favour of a hasty assessment of the declaration and prefer to wait for the January 27 final report to be submitted by Hans Blix and Al Baradei to make a decision.
In official statements and editorials Iraqis maintain that their chemical, biological and missile programme is a closed chapter. They assert they will keep cooperating with the inspectors to prove to the world that U.S. and British "allegations are baseless".
During the inspections in the 90s the United Nations destroyed tons of Iraqi chemical and biological weapons and dismantled Iraq's nuclear programme. However, the U.S. and Britain do not believe they have found Iraq's entire banned arsenal.
Meanwhile, the United States has asked many key allies in the region to station large numbers of troops. It has even envisaged an aid package worth billions of dollars to countries for the support they provide. Turkey for example, voiced concerns that it will lose billions of U.S. dollars if a war is waged on Iraq.
Days fade, tension goes high and war lurks in the air. I asked an Iraqi if he is scared this time. He replied that in war and peace he developed a habit of cherishing life and never abandoning hope.
Built by the Abbasids around 1,200 years ago, the old city is still captivating with its ancient facades and burnt incense that evokes a glorious past.
Hashem Ahelbarra is a Abu Dhabi TV journalist.
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