Why Kerala’s aromatic Thalassery biryani in Dubai is addictive— and top 5 places to try in UAE

This aromatic and subtle biryani is a masterclass in restraint where ghee rice shines

Last updated:
Manjusha Radhakrishnan, Entertainment, Lifestyle and Sport Editor
3 MIN READ
The cooking technique followed is the difference between Thalassery biryani and Kozhikkodan biryani
The cooking technique followed is the difference between Thalassery biryani and Kozhikkodan biryani
Shutterstock

Dubai: When South Indian actor-director Vineeth Sreenivasan mock-angrily declared that adding raisins or pineapple to Thalassery biryani goes “against its very being,” he wasn’t entirely joking. In fact, he was speaking straight to the soul of anyone who has ever fallen in love with a plate of authentic Malabar biryani — that glorious, understated masterpiece from Kerala’s Malabar coast.

Unlike its louder cousins from Hyderabad or Lucknow, the Thalassery biryani doesn’t shout from the culinary rooftops. It just teases and nudges you to culinary high — through delicate layers of fragrant rice, tender meat and the unmistakable aroma of jeerakasala (kaima) rice.

Its magic lies in restraint. No overbearing masala, no blinding red oil slick, no overcooked chicken lost in spice chaos. Just the quiet confidence of balance.

The ghee rice itself — short-grained and lightly golden — is the star. Cooked separately, it meets the spiced chicken only in the final layering, sealing a promise of harmony rather than dominance. If it’s wrapped in a banana leaf — the so-called pothi biryani — even better.

Served with pappadam, a spoonful of raita and maybe a slice of lime on the side, this is not just food — it’s an emotion. One that carries the salt of the Malabar coast, the hospitality of its people, and the simplicity that makes every bite sing.

So, where does one go in search of the real thing? Here are a few places that, to me, get it just right.

1. Hot Pepper, Dubai Investment Park

Tucked in the heart of Dubai’s industrial chic DIP, Hot Pepper is where nostalgia and aroma collide. Their pothi biryani is a work of art — rice that holds its grain, chicken that falls apart at the touch of a spoon, and that banana leaf steam that could make even the most cynical diner emotional. It’s not fussy, not fancy — just perfect.

2. Calicut Paragon, Karama

An institution in its own right, Paragon’s Thalassery biryani has been winning hearts (and comforting homesick Keralites) for decades. Theirs is a slightly more polished version, served with precision — the rice airy, the masala gentle, and the meat beautifully infused. It’s a place where you understand why restraint is the hardest art to master.

3. Aaramam Restaurant, Karama

If you like your biryani to come with a side of nostalgia, Aaramam delivers. The flavours are pure, the ghee used just enough to linger on your fingers, and the service unfussy. It’s the kind of place that reminds you that biryani doesn’t need frills — only heart.

4. Kozhikode Star Biryani

Kozhikode Star stays close to the roots — no over-seasoning, no theatrics. Their chicken Thalassery biryani is pure comfort: lightly spiced, tender, and served with a papadam that shatters just right. Order one plate served on banana leaf, and you’ll probably end up packing another to go.

5. Salkara, Al Ghusais and Dubai Media City

Salkara brings a touch of Malabar nostalgia to modern dining. Their biryani is fragrant, authentic and immensely satisfying — the kind that fills not just your stomach but also your heart. It’s ideal for those who appreciate a balance between homely and restaurant-grade precision.

There’s something deeply poetic about how the Thalassery biryani resists embellishment. It doesn’t crave raisins or pineapple chunks or an overload of spice. It doesn’t perform — it simply exists, in all its fragrant humility.

Perhaps that’s why it endures — because it reminds us that the best things in life don’t need to be reinvented. Sometimes, all they need is a banana leaf, a spoonful of ghee, and the quiet joy of being exactly what they are.

Manjusha Radhakrishnan
Manjusha RadhakrishnanEntertainment, Lifestyle and Sport Editor
Manjusha Radhakrishnan has been slaying entertainment news and celebrity interviews in Dubai for 18 years—and she’s just getting started. As Entertainment Editor, she covers Bollywood movie reviews, Hollywood scoops, Pakistani dramas, and world cinema. Red carpets? She’s walked them all—Europe, North America, Macau—covering IIFA (Bollywood Oscars) and Zee Cine Awards like a pro. She’s been on CNN with Becky Anderson dropping Bollywood truth bombs like Salman Khan Black Buck hunting conviction and hosted panels with directors like Bollywood’s Kabir Khan and Indian cricketer Harbhajan Singh. She has also covered film festivals around the globe. Oh, and did we mention she landed the cover of Xpedition Magazine as one of the UAE’s 50 most influential icons? She was also the resident Bollywood guru on Dubai TV’s Insider Arabia and Saudi TV, where she dishes out the latest scoop and celebrity news. Her interview roster reads like a dream guest list—Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Shah Rukh Khan, Robbie Williams, Sean Penn, Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt, Joaquin Phoenix, and Morgan Freeman. From breaking celeb news to making stars spill secrets, Manjusha doesn’t just cover entertainment—she owns it while looking like a star herself.
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