Spring is the best time to relish Asparagus

In Germany, it's known as Könliches Gemüse, or royal vegetable, so it seemed best to ask a German — and a chef — to explain exactly why asparagus is so celebrated at this time of year. Steffen Assmann, Chef de Cuisine at Der Keller, Jumeirah Beach Hotel's German restaurant, which is serving several white asparagus dishes this month only, fills us in.

Why is now the best time to eat asparagus?

In Germany, season starts around mid-April and continues until June 24, which officially is St John's Day. So the time in between is, indeed, the best time to enjoy the delicate and rich taste of asparagus.

What is the best way to cook it?

You can grill, bake, steam or boil the asparagus. My advice is to boil it in salted and sugared water with a tablespoon of butter and half a lemon for 10-12 minutes, depending on the size of the asparagus. Do not throw away the stock — you can use it as a base for a delicious soup.

How should it be served?

Asparagus is a vegetables that can be eaten on its own, and cooked as garnish or served in a salad. The classical asparagus dish in Germany is Asparagus with boiled new potatoes, meat or breaded veal escalope and sauce Hollandaise. We eat freshly cooked asparagus with our hands, with the stalk tip first.

Why is it so popular in Germany?

All Germans love any kind of asparagus, that's for sure. When the first asparagus is ready to harvest, that's the time when we know the long winter is definitely over. Many cities in Germany hold festivals celebrating the asparagus harvest. Schwetzingen claims to be the "asparagus capital of the world" and holds an annual Spargelfest (asparagus festival) where an Asparagus Queen is crowned.

 What are the things to look out for when buying asparagus in the market? Until when can we eat it?

Always check if asparagus tips are solid and have good colour, from ivory and purple to green. Stalks should be firm and bouncy, not wilted. Hold two stalks like drumsticks and rub together. You will hear a squeaking noise. That means the asparagus is fresh. Hold an asparagus stalk in your hands and bend it. It will usually snap at the point that should be discarded.

The season of fresh and healthy asparagus lasts until the end of June.

What can you do once the season is over — is canned or jarred asparagus an alternative or would you say just wait for next year?

One point that all asparagus lovers would agree on is that we never would use canned or jarred asparagus. Only freshly harvested asparagus is just good enough. I would suggest waiting until the new season. As a tradition, Germans buy freshly harvested asparagus straight from the fields to make sure the asparagus is fresh and full of vitamins.

Dine out

Love asparagus? Check out these restaurants celebrating the venerable vegetable this month.

Beach Rotana Abu Dhabi
Brauhaus & Prego's: White asparagus is the draw at Brauhaus, while its green cousin is celebrated Italian style at Prego's. Call Brahaus at 02 697 9118 and Prego's at 02 697 9125/175.

Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi
Spaccanapoli: Chef Massimo will be using the vegetable in his Italian "Asparagus Delights" menu. Call 02-6166261.

Cavalli Club Dubai
This month head to Cavalli Club, as chefs combine eggs, poulet de bresse, roast spring lamb, risotto and creamy gratin with asparagus. Call 04-3329260.

Jumeirah Beach Hotel
Der Keller: À la carte white asparagus dishes for dinner. Call 04-4068999.

Park Hyatt Dubai
Traiteur: Chef Franck Detrait has created a three-course menu, including dessert. Call 04 602 1234.

Madinat Jumeirah
MJ's: The "Summer Asparagus" menu features four courses for Dh275 per person, available from 7-11.30pm.

Segreto: Five course white asparagus tasting menu for Dh350, available from 7-11.30pm. Call 04 366 6730.

************

White asparagus ice-cream

Ingredients

Cut asparagus into small pieces and poach in simmering water and cook until asparagus is fully tender, about 25 minutes. In separate medium pot, combine 700ml milk, the sugar, glucose, glucose powder, bloomed gelatin, salt and milk powder and bring to a boil. Blend remaining 300ml milk in a blender with xanthan gum on high for a minute. Add asparagus to blender, with both milk mixtures and blend on high for a minute. Strain through a fine chinois, and leave to mature in refrigerator overnight. Freeze in ice-cream machine.

Note: Glucose powder and xanthan gum are available locally in supermarkets. Blooming gelatin means soaking it in water until softened. It will then dissolve in the heated milk.

— Chef Franck Detrait, Traiteur, Park Hyatt Dubai

White asparagus soup

Ingredients

White asparagus must be peeled, as the outside is fibrous and even woody at times.

The usual way to peel it is by holding it in your non-dominant hand, gripping it gently, right below the head with the thumb and index finger and resting the stalk on the palm and wrist. Starting just below the head, peel toward the cut end.

Turn the asparagus slightly and repeat until the whole stalk has been peeled. Once all the asparagus has been peeled, cut off the ends about two centimetres up.

In doing this, if you notice any more fibres sticking to the asparagus, peel them away.

Cut the heads of the asparagus in five-centimetre-long pieces and set aside in a bowl covered with a damp paper tissue for later use. The remaining asparagus you can cut into two-centimetre pieces.

Sauté the onion in the butter until soft. Add the two-centimetre pieces of asparagus and cook for five minutes.

Add the broth and boil gently for about 15 minutes, or until the asparagus is very soft.

Purée the soup in batches in the blender or with a hand blender, and return to the pot.

Bring to a simmer and add the reserved asparagus heads.

Cook for at least five minutes or until they are tender.

Turn down the heat and add the cream. Do not boil further. Taste and add salt, and freshly ground pepper as needed. You may also want to add some fresh lemon juice if you think the soup needs acidity. Garnish with parsley.

— Steffen Assmann, Der Keller, Jumeirah Beach Hotel

Asparagus and crab quiche

Ingredients

For the pastry

Preheat oven to 180°C. Mix butter with flour then add salt and water little by little. Let the dough sit for 30 minutes.

Lightly grease a 20x20cm baking dish. Roll the flour and line the dish. In a large bowl, whisk eggs and milk together. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour into prepared baking dish and bake, uncovered for 45-55 minutes until eggs are set. Remove from oven and let it sit for 15 minutes before serving.

— Chef Carlo Cirone, Millennium Hotel Abu Dhabi