Haydarpasa railway station: Istanbul icon at centre of protests over its future
Once a gateway to the East, Istanbul’s Haydarpasa may become an art centre, not a station
Istanbul: For nearly a century, Haydarpasa railway station on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus symbolised the gateway between Europe and the East.
Immortalised in films and novels, its marble halls once echoed with the rumble of locomotives, passengers rushing with suitcases, and the cries of simit sellers hawking sesame bread.
Today, the great eastern hub of the Berlin-to-Baghdad railway stands silent. Since 2013, trains have stopped, restoration halted operations, and archaeological digs unearthed artifacts dating back to the 5th century BC. In 2024, Turkey’s culture ministry took over the site, pledging to transform it into an art centre — a plan that has triggered fierce opposition.
A jewel of memory
For many, Haydarpasa is more than a building. Retired station worker Senay Kartal, who spent 38 years there, still recalls the joy of travellers: “It was such a beautiful place, there was so much energy. That beauty no longer exists today. Even to me, its doors are closed.”
Key facts
Historic landmark: Haydarpasa Station was inaugurated in 1908 as part of the Berlin–Baghdad railway, serving as Europe’s gateway to the East.
Cultural icon: Immortalised in Turkish films, novels and art; it symbolises migration, modernisation, and Istanbul’s connection to Anatolia.
Closed since 2013: Initially for restoration, then due to archaeological excavations that uncovered artifacts dating to the 5th century BC.
Ministry takeover: In 2024, the Culture Ministry assumed control, pledging an art centre, public garden, and continued rail services.
Controversy: Railway staff and activists accuse authorities of exploiting the prime Bosphorus waterfront for profit.
Protests: The Haydarpasa Platform holds weekly demonstrations, demanding the station remain operational.
Personal memories: Retired worker Senay Kartal recalls the bustling halls and energy of the past; many see it as “more than a building.”
Architects’ warning: Experts say stripping Haydarpasa of its functions risks erasing its meaning.
The station, inaugurated in 1908 at the twilight of the Ottoman Empire, has witnessed turbulent history: the deportation of Armenians, military coups, earthquakes, even a devastating fire. “Haydarpasa holds a special place in Turkey’s collective memory,” said sociologist Ayca Yuksel, noting its portrayal in art and cinema.
Clash over the future
The ministry’s plan envisions a cultural and arts centre, public garden, and promises that trains will return. But critics remain sceptical. Parts of the building still house railway staff, now ordered to leave.
Train driver and unionist Hasan Bektas believes the motive is profit: “Their aim is always the same — to cash in on every beautiful place. The public’s interests were never part of the equation.”
Architect Gul Koksal warned the station is a unique ecosystem — with repair workshops, staff housing, and a port — not just a façade. “It’s like a jewel, but it has meaning only if preserved with everything that makes it alive.”
A growing protest
Every Sunday, the Haydarpasa Platform — a coalition of academics, urban planners, and railway staff — protests outside, chanting: “Haydarpasa is a train station and must stay that way.”
Young voices have joined too. Nehir Guner, a 22-year-old student, said she grew up gazing at the closed station from her ferry: “Railways are vital for a city. It’s painfully clear this project is all for show, designed to impress, not serve real needs.”
For locals, the battle is about more than architecture. It is about whether one of Turkey’s most iconic landmarks remains a living station — or becomes a stage set.
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