Stitched in time

Faiza Samee's designs are ethnic yet contemporary

A pioneer in reviving traditional embroidery and antique stitches in Pakistan, Faiza Samee is better known as an ethnic chic designer.

When friend and colleague Maheen asked her to exhibit in Dubai with her, Faiza brought her collections to this region for the first time. On display at the Designer's Lounge boutique recently, she explained her commitment to the intricate art of zardosi embroidery and her interpretation of its rich heritage in today's fashion.

"For me this is not a business venture. You have to see the work to understand my passion for designing," said Faiza, showing some of her creations. The flamboyant colours and dazzling, elaborate needlework reflected on every shalwar-kameez, lehnga choli and saree are like a rainbow. Her grace and femininity are reflected in her designs.

"The quality of the embroidery is very important to me. I want to capture as much of our heritage as possible while I still can," said Faiza. What began with two karigars (craftsmen) working in her verandah, has today become a workshop with over 80 people including embroiderers, master cutters, dyers, hand-block printers and handloom weavers. A personal interest in antique embroidery turned into a lucrative enterprise and later became a cultural responsibility.

Recipient of a Lux Style Award 2002 in Pakistan, Faiza is recognised for her work in reviving a dying folk art. Her re-introduction of the marori stitch, a twisted gold thread work of Gujarat, embroidered as a motif on cloth, was a huge success. "Now everywhere in the country, people are familiar with marori, be it good or bad. I am proud of this awareness, because it was an alien concept few years ago," said Faiza.

The other ethnic embroideries she has reproduced include mughalai farisha, Turkish dokh, doftillah, kalamkari and khicha.

Her interest in embroidery is not bound by the sub-continental traditions, but extends worldwide to Chinese thread motifs and European crystals and beads.

While the embroidery on each garment may be ethnic, the styles are contemporary.

To achieve a sensational effect, Faiza combines two or three types of stitches in one outfit. Quality in fabrics and workmanship play a vital role in her designs. "Bridal wear is my speciality, and I enjoy interacting with clients and creating outfits that suit the taste of both sides," she said. An antique collector of some repute, Faiza derives her inspiration from arts with a history.

For her, the allure of Mughal miniatures, antique brass and copper items picked from bazaars, Turkish ceramics, old pieces of embroidered fabrics and ancient pattern books are irresistible. "Every item I have collected is a precious piece from the past. I enjoy learning, and have spent hours sketching in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Metropolitan Art Museum in New York," she recalled.

The camaraderie between Faiza and Maheen is admirable. Two designers with radically different perspectives on fashion. But the mutual admiration for each other's work is apparent.

"There is no feeling of threat among designers of our generation in Pakistan, because we don't copy each other, but follow our own individual style. I admire Faiza Samee's fine and delicate work, and would define her philosophy of designing as a feminine look," said Maheen.

Though both admit that competition exists, especially among the newcomers in the fashion industry, it is their passion for work that keeps the embers of creativity blazing.