Costumes aid the dancer

From East to West, every dance form is accompanied by a unique style of dress which makes it exquisite


It's the sequins that dazzle and frills that swirl on the costumes that make the overall impression of any dance form look exquisite. Of course, it is the skill and grace which is most appreciated when watching a dance performance but having an attractive attire only enhances the show.

From East to the West, every dance form is accompanied with a unique style of dress. The colours used may be vibrant or subdued, and the cuts scanty or layered. The accessories may range from a head dress to arm bands, to stockings and jewellery. Speaking to professional dancers gives us a glimpse into the glamourous world of costumes.

Dance plays an integral part in India's cultural heritage, and each region has varying folk styles. The well-known Indian classical dance forms are the Kathak, Bharatnatyam, Odissi and Kuchipudi.

Tripti Bhupen, a professional Bharatnatyam dancer and instructor based in Dubai, explains how the dress is part of the artiste's expression. "Being a visual art form, costume in Bharatnatyam holds a special place. In fact, it's one of the four main components called ahariya abhinaya, that denotes the decorative aspect of the dance. I assume the original design was derived from the temple carvings in Tamil Nadu which depicted the art," she says.

The dress may be a sari, skirt or trousers, but they all have a common feature: fan-like pleats that open up while dancing. The dancer is also adorned with gold-plated ornaments from head to toe and coloured with a red dye called 'alta'. Beginning with thalai samanam, the head is decorated with an auspicious motif of the sun and moon among other pieces of jewellery. Earring, bangles, necklaces, waist belt, and anklets are a must. The outfit is incomplete without the ghunguroos, or ankle bells, that also attribute to the rhythmic beats of the dance.

Many of these accessories are specially crafted by artisans in Chennai, India, and only available there. "Fortunately, we have the option in the UAE to recreate costumes with the assistance of professional tailors." While Tripti buys her dance costumes in India, she has identified a tailor in Karama called Canara Tailors who can replicate the outfit for her students for their performances here.
Maura De Koraes Newcombe of Visual Arts, selects the appropriate costume from her personal collection of gorgeous dance costumes.

A Brazilian dancer and choreographer, she and her brother Karlos De Moraes present shows with their dance troupe called Extravadance. Especially created and brought in from Brazil, they have costumes for various dances ranging from Flamenco, Salsa, Carnival, Modern Pop, Street Jazz, Hip Hop and others.

"While the main aspect of the dance is choreography, we place great importance on our costumes. In fact, we change our outfits maybe six or seven times in one show so the audience is presented with a variety," says Maura.

A typical show may consist of a tap dance for one segment, a cabaret for another and a classical ballet for the third. Hence, the costumes are appropriately selected and embellished with accessories like gloves, shoes, hats, jewellery, and others. "Rehearsing with the costumes before the show is essential because everything must be comfortable and not hinder movements of the dance," she adds.

A dance form that utilises the design of the costume to enhance the moves is the Middle Eastern art of bellydancing. This ancient dance form is enjoyed for its artistry, ethnicity, and beauty. Styles may vary in Lebanon, Egypt, Turkey, North Africa, Arabian Gulf and others, but they are united in the use of certain isolation movements, especially of the hips. In addition, the undulating moves of the chest, shoulders, head, hands, and torso are also seen.

"Traditionally, the costume comes in two pieces comprising a midriff blouse and skirt, to show off the area from the hip to the rib cage. Often beginners wear a scarf around the waist to accentuate the movements for better observation," explains Yasmine, a professional bellydancer and instructor based in Dubai and three-time winner at the European Belly dancing Championships held in Germany. While she trained originally in classical ballet, a trip to Egypt converted her passion to bellydancing.

"A pleasing costume is essential to present this art, and professionals are particular about the quality of hand embroidery used on the outfits.

"That's what makes it difficult to acquire bellydancing costumes here, and I have mine specially designed in Turkey or Egypt," says Yasmine.

The Oriental shades of gold, red, green and white are preferred, but nowadays all colours are worn. The sewn application of tassles, coins, beads, and other dangling edge ornaments highlight the areas of movement. Rhinestone earrings, bangles, belts, necklaces and other jewellery may be worn. The embellishments on costumes can be endless.

Another interesting idea seen in costumes of modern dance was the applicatio of illuminated neon on costumes at a light and sound show presented at the Global Village this year.

Sharmila Karate, well-known in the UAE as a choreographer and dancer of contemporary Western dance, is constantly creating costumes for her performances.

"Depending on the occasion, the costumes will vary. For product launches or corporate functions, I may use the colours or logo of the campany in the costume. Stage productions may require outfits of certain themes, but whatever the case, costumes play a vital role in performances," adds Sharmila.

Whoever said that "clothes maketh a man," will definitely agree that "the costumes maketh the dancer!"