Islamabad: Sirbaz Khan and Muhammad Abdul Joshi became the first Pakistani climbers to summit the 10th highest and deadliest mountain in the world. The team proudly raised the green and white flag on Nepal’s 8,091-metre Annapurna peak after the successful summit on April 16.
Annapurna I is the most dangerous to climb, with a fatality rate of 32 per cent as of 2012, according to NASA’s Earth Observatory.
Led by Sirbaz, the four-member team included climber Joshi, manager Saad Munawar and photographer and cyclist Kamran Ali.
The first two attempts by Sirbaz and Joshi on April 13 and 14 remained unsuccessful. The third time was the charm for the Pakistan team. “Green flag raised at the summit” expedition manager Saad Munawar made the proud announcement on social media. It was at 1:30 pm on April 16 that Sirbaz and Joshi became the first Pakistanis to summit the treacherous Mt Annapurna, the team shared.
“This is Pakistan’s first ever summit of Mt Annapurna. This is not the success of two climbers but the whole Pakistani mountaineering community” Munawar said. “Time has come for our unsung heroes to get the respect, recognition and appreciation that they deserve” he said, thanking Allah and Pakistanis for their generous support and heartfelt prayers.
The two climbers safely have descended to Camp IV and would return to base camp soon after, according to Kamran who photographed and chronicled their journey shared on Instagram.
Alpine Club of Pakistan congratulated the team on the first successful Pakistani ascent of the 10th highest and most difficult peak Annapurna. “It is an outstanding achievement, and we all are very proud” ACP’s Karrar Haidri said.
Two proud climbers
Sirbaz, who hails from Aliabad, Hunza, began his climbing career in 2016. He is on a mission to summit world’s 14 highest peaks and has already climbed five including K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Lhotse and Manaslu.
Joshi, 36, who is a native of Shimshal, started his climbing journey as a helper and then a high-altitude porter (HAP) on various 8000m expeditions but this was his first successful 8,000m peak. Joshi is passionate about summiting the unclimbed peaks.
The expedition was dedicated to Pakistan’s greatest mountaineer of all time Muhammad Ali Sadpara who was declared dead in February 2021 after he went missing on the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, during a winter expedition. “This summit is dedicated to our big brother and the best Mountaineer Pakistan ever produced: Muhammad Ali Sadpara” Munawar said in a heartfelt note.
Pakistani team’s Annapurna summit also aims to acknowledge porters, and inspire the younger generation of mountaineers and adventurers, the team said.
The world’s 14 highest peaks, also known as the 8,000ers, stretch across mountain ranges in Pakistan, Nepal and China. Pakistan is home to five of the world’s 8000-meter high peaks.
