Islamabad: A royal wedding attended by a star-studded guest list has turned out to be a breakthrough moment for a Pakistani designer.
Mahpara Khan crossed a milestone in her career by designing a bespoke dress for Queen Maxima of the Netherlands that she wore at the wedding reception of Jordan’s Crown Prince Hussain bin Abdullah II and Princess Rajwa on June 1. Queen Maxima wore a long-sleeved maxi dress in a pattern of neutral tones. The dress featured a sash of Jordanian royal honours and the famous Stuart Tiara, with its 39.75-carat diamond.
Soon after the ceremony, social media was abuzz with photos of royal fashion moments, and news broke in Pakistan that Queen Maxima’s dress was designed by Mahpara Khan.
Unique traditional design
In an exclusive interview with Gulf News, Mahpara Khan reflected on this incredible opportunity. “It was and still remains a surreal experience. But oddly enough, it did not feel strange. It felt lovely but it came hand in hand with the burden of responsibility to get everything perfect,” she said.
The design process demanded a delicate balance between global aesthetics and Pakistani traditions. The handcrafted design skillfully fused Mughal patterns with traditional Pakistani embroidery techniques called dapka, naqshi, resham and gota work. These intricate needle and thread works, with gold and silver accents, have historically been worn exclusively by royal families in South Asia. Passed down from generation to generation, these designs continue to be used in Pakistani weddings and formal dresses today.
The dress for the Dutch queen had to be “light enough to wear while still making it ornate and intricate.” Each formal dress involves 30 to 40 artisans, with 3 to 6 working simultaneously around a traditional wooden frame ‘adda’ (an embroidery tool). The aim was to create a silhouette that transcended borders while paying homage to Pakistan’s rich cultural heritage.
Designing for the Queen
Sharing her insights on the experience of designing for royalty, Khan said that she began with a base sketch while considering Queen Maxima’s personal aesthetic preferences. “To our surprise, she loved the traditional lehenga/choli cut of our ceremonial bridals so we started with that in mind and built on that with shades of ivory, cream, dull golds, and accents of ruby.”
Months of coordination and communication with the royal stylists followed the initial meeting at Khan’s design studio in Pakistan. Discussing the challenges, the designer mentioned the added difficulty of tailoring the dress to precise measurements without immediate physical access to the Queen of the Netherlands.
The team exchanged feedback and worked closely with the royal stylists for nearly 90 days to ensure a perfect fit and fall. The design was entirely handcrafted, requiring a team of 20 people working in shifts over approximately 100 days to complete the intricate surface design, including embellishments and handwork, while the rough silhouette was crafted in just one week.
How did the Dutch Queen meet Mahpara Khan?
During her 2019 visit to Pakistan, Queen Maxima met several business owners and one of them was Mahpara Khan. The queen then visited the design studio where she had the opportunity to observe the level of detail and intricacy that goes into each design.
Sharing her thoughts on this collaboration, Khan highlighted Pakistan’s “rich and diverse artisanal history”, which has produced globally acclaimed artists. “Our artists just need opportunities and avenues to express themselves,” the luxury wear brand owner said.
‘Celebration of cultural exchange’
The magnificent attire, donned by Queen Maxima garnered attention worldwide and signified a cultural exchange between Pakistan and the Dutch royalty. Fashion industry experts believe that this collaboration holds immense significance in promoting cultural exchange and elevating Pakistani designers onto a global platform.
The Netherlands Embassy in Pakistan congratulated Mahpara Khan and described the collaboration as a “majestic blend of cultures” and a “celebration of cultural exchange.” Pakistani citizens, in their social media posts, showed immense pride in this cultural achievement that showcases the country’s talent and craftsmanship on an international stage.
This event is also a reminder of a major cultural exchange that has taken place between Pakistan and the British royal family. During the British royal couple’s visit to Pakistan in October 2019, Kate Middleton, the Princess of Wales, embraced Pakistani fashion by wearing traditional dresses from various Pakistani labels including shalwar kameez by Gul Ahmed, a dupatta by Bonanza Satrangi, a kurta by Élan Pakistan, and earrings by Zeen.
Mahpara Khan’s journey as a fashion designer
Mahpara Khan established her eponymous brand in 2015 when she was just 26 years old, following five years of experience at prominent fashion brands in Pakistan. “I wanted to start my own brand to experiment with my own creativity and explore myself as an artist and an entrepreneur,” she shared.
Her studio has collaborated with major Pakistani retail brands, including Gul Ahmed, Sapphire, Ittehad, Rungrez, Adamjee, among others. She has also contributed to the Government of Japan’s efforts in creating sustainable income for female artisans in the rural Sindh region, elevating globally exportable Pakistani crafts and textiles.
When asked about the impact of the latest milestone on her career, Khan said that her primary focus is on creating beautiful designs and exploring her creativity as an artist and entrepreneur. However, this fusion of cultures and the royal endorsement of Pakistani fashion has solidified the country’s presence on the global fashion stage.
