A Pakistani first: Sirbaz Khan scales all 8,000m peaks without oxygen cylinder

Dubai: Famous Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully summited Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest peak, without the use of supplemental oxygen.

This final summit marks his completion of all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, also known as the “eight-thousanders”, making him the first Pakistani climber in history to accomplish this rare and formidable feat in pure alpine style. Pakistani mountaineer calls it landmark achievement for both Pakistan and the global climbing community.

A summit for the ages

Sirbaz Khan, 35, reached the summit of Kangchenjunga located in eastern Nepal at 5am local time (4:15 am PKT) on May 18, 2025. His final ascent, achieved without bottled oxygen or fixed ropes, exemplifies the extreme difficulty and boldness of true alpine climbing.

Only a handful of elite climbers around the world have ever completed all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen. Sirbaz now joins this rare club, etching his name into the annals of mountaineering history and uplifting Pakistan’s name to the highest peaks on Earth.

Years of grit

Sirbaz’s decade-long journey in high-altitude climbing began in 2016 and has included many treacherous ascents across the globe.

Each of these climbs was done without the aid of supplemental oxygen, a testament to his endurance, skill, and iron will.

 Praise from accross the Nation

Celebrating his historic accomplishment, the Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri stated: “With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 14 highest peaks without oxygen. He has made the entire nation proud.”

His tour partners, Imagine Nepal, also extended their congratulations.

“We extend our heartfelt congratulations to Mr. Sirbaz Khan — our dear friend, client, and partner from Pakistan — on his incredible achievement of summiting Kanchenjunga without supplemental oxygen,” they said in a statement.

 Tributes

Tributes also poured in from across Pakistan. Fellow climbers Naila Kiani, Sajid Sadpara, civil society members, and political leaders hailed Sirbaz as a national hero and a symbol of Pakistani perseverance, Dawn news reported.

Thanking mentor

Sirbaz hails from Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan, a region known for producing world-class mountaineers. On four of his expeditions, he was accompanied by the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, one of Pakistan’s most revered climbers.

Ali Sadpara tragically lost his life during a winter expedition on K2 in 2021, but Sirbaz has carried forward his legacy with extraordinary grace and resolve.

Inspiring the next generation

Sirbaz’s mission has always been more than personal ambition. By conquering the most dangerous peaks on Earth, he aims to inspire young Pakistani climbers and raise the global profile of Pakistan’s mountaineering potential.

 His story is not just one of personal glory but also of national pride, courage, and an unwavering belief that even the tallest mountains can be conquered with passion, perseverance, and purpose.

The top 8000 metres peaks conquered by Sirbaz included: