Milestone: Pakistani makes history climbing mountains without oxygen

Dubai: Renowned Pakistani climber Sajid Ali Sadpara reached a new milestone on Saturday, scaling Nepal’s Dhaulagiri (8,167 metres) without supplemental oxygen or porter support.

He also becomes the first climber to summit the peak in the Spring 2025 season. The achievement, confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, marks Sajid’s ninth 8,000-metre peak, all climbed without bottled oxygen or external assistance. At just 29, Sajid continues to cement his place among the world’s elite high-altitude mountaineers.

Expedition

The expedition, organised by Seven Summit Treks Nepal and Sabroso Pakistan, launched its final summit push from Camp IV at 6:15pm on Friday and reached the top at 9:35am on Saturday, overcoming harsh weather and fixing over 350 metres of rope to secure the final section of the ascent.

“This is a historic milestone for Pakistani mountaineering,” said Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. “Sajid’s determination, resilience, and respect for the mountains represent the spirit of adventure that defines our nation,” he added.

Legendary climber

Sajid is the son of the legendary Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who lost his life during a winter ascent of K2 in 2021. Since then, Sajid has dedicated his climbing career to honouring his father’s legacy by aiming to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplemental oxygen, Dawn news reported.

“Climbing is not just my profession, it’s my inheritance,” Sajid said. “Every step I take in the mountains is a tribute to my father’s dream and to the potential of Pakistani mountaineers on the world stage.”

With Dhaulagiri added to his resume, Sajid is now just five summits away from completing the full set of the world’s highest peaks — a goal only a select few have ever achieved without oxygen.