John Richmond on 'punk mindset', music and Dubai Fashion Week: 'I don't design for the sake of it'

Dubai: John Richmond has built a career on instinct. For over four decades, the British designer has translated music, rebellion and youth culture into fashion that feels unapologetic and emotionally charged.

Emerging from the UK’s late-70s and early-80s creative scene, Richmond became known for a style rooted in punk attitude, fashion that doesn’t ask for approval.

That same energy took over Dubai Fashion Week on Day Two, where Richmond delivered the closing show, marking his debut show in the city.

When he spoke to Gulf News shortly after the show, Richmond reflected on how the rebellious spirit that defines his work continues to shape his collections.

“It’s a punk attitude, an ‘I can do that’ mindset,” he said. “I don’t design for the sake of designing. I design what comes to me naturally.” Rather than chasing trends, his creative process remains rooted in instinct, emotion and personal expression.

Music sits at the center of that process as he regarded music as one of the core things that drive his inspiration 'It is not like I listen to a song and feel inspired by it...it is something that is just inside of me...comes from within," he added.

Richmond’s long-standing connection to the music world is well documented, with his designs worn by artists such as David Bowie, Madonna, Mick Jagger, George Michael and Annie Lennox.

Richmond’s Dubai Fashion Week collection leaned heavily into his own archives. On its official Instagram, the brand described the show as “a show built from the archives. Past collections recharged with a rebellious edge. No nostalgia. Just Richmond.” Which translated clearly on the runway.

The collection featured fitted silhouettes alongside loser layered pieces with sharp cuts, asymmetric details and metal embellishments giving each and every look a unique flow and edge of its own.

The colour palette for the most part stayed grounded in black, light and dark neutrals with occasional pops of red, metallics and other graphic elements.

One of the most eye-catching looks was a fitted dress covered in a beaded Union Jack, a nod to the classic British symbol.

Another standout was a striking cocktail dress that combined a zipped leather corset top with a bubble net skirt and up close, the leather is printed with the slogan 'yes, we are the exploited' and also a piece with 'Give peace a chance' around the neckline, all these pieces further emphasize on the defiance and social edge often seen in punk scenes.

When asked about what he’s listening to now, Richmond rejected the idea of curated playlists altogether. Instead, he gravitates toward radio, drawn to the "serendipity' of not knowing what comes next, he said.

He values specialist DJs who contextualise the music, share stories between tracks, and introduce listeners to both new sounds and forgotten classics.

He recalled a recent radio segment marking an anniversary of David Bowie’s death, featuring Iggy Pop reflecting on their time together in 1970s Berlin, moments Richmond finds deeply inspiring.

He also expressed frustration with algorithm-driven platforms, calling it “a shame” that physical media has largely disappeared.

For him, owning music making the effort to go out and buy it was once part of the creative experience, something tangible and meaningful that shaped how art was valued.

When asked what advice he would give young designers, Richmond widened the conversation beyond fashion. He expressed concerns not just for emerging creatives in the fashion industry, but for young people in general, navigating a world increasingly shaped by AI and rapid technological change, questioning where space remains for originality and opportunity.

Presenting in Dubai offered a fresh creative environment for Richmond. He described the Middle East as a positive and energising space for fashion; he expressed that he sees it as a region still shaping its identity and unburdened by rigid traditions. “Everything is absolutely new,” he said, noting the excitement and openness of local audiences.

Closing out the night, Richmond showed that in an industry obsessed with what’s next, staying true to yourself is still the boldest move.

Article contributed by Saarangi Aji