The humble goes haute

Paris: A kebab and falafel restaurant has received a first-ever mention in one of Europe's leading culinary guides, as traditional food critics recognise the appeal of cheap eateries to cash-strapped consumers

A trend towards humbler fare has swept France and its neighbours. High-quality but affordable brasseries are doing a roaring trade along with "restauration rapide", the French take on fast food. Many Michelin-starred restaurants, meanwhile, are struggling.

The Gault Millau guide, whose influence approaches that of Michelin, granted the Finjan restaurant in Antwerp 13 out of 20 points, describing its meat as "simple, pure and succulent". Pita restaurants have more of a reputation for being neon-lit grease emporiums. But Gault Millau realised that Finjan was worth a visit when they heard that chefs from local restaurants often visited for a late-night kebab.

The crisis hasn't stopped the French from eating out — restaurant sales grew seven per cent last year — but the amount spent on an average meal has fallen by almost the same percentage.

Bernard Boutboul, head of Gira conseil, a food consultancy, said two types of restaurant were benefiting, starting with fast food, which had sales growth of nine per cent last year.

"The French now realise fast food is no longer synonymous with ‘malbouffe' (bad food), that you need not eat any old rubbish just because you're in a hurry."

He added "an entire generation" of young French chefs had opened restaurants offering affordable traditional "haute gastronomy" food.