Spice up your wardrobe

Dubai-based fashion and textile design graduate from India has created a unique collection of smart, western evening and casual wear using only ethnic Indian fabrics


Traditional Indian fabrics have a special allure. Hand woven by skilled craftsmen, Indian jamewars, brocades, banarsis, bandhinis, leheriyas, ikkat and kantha are infused with the richness of a heritage that is ancient yet timeless.

For generations these beautiful weaves have been confined to sarees and traditional ethnic wear. Although the burgeoning demand for Indian fusion wear has widened international awareness of them, these fabrics still remain outside the experience of women who prefer western clothes.

Uma Ghosh Deshpande is all set to change that. The Dubai-based fashion and textile design graduate from India has created a unique collection of smart, western evening and casual wear using only ethnic Indian fabrics. Uma will launch her own brand called 'Pepper' at an exhibition that opens on Thursday, December 19, at the Dubai Marine Beach Resort and Spa. The clothes will be on display from 10.00am to 10.00pm until December 21.

Uma's garments have classic western cuts and minimal embellishment. "These exquisite fabrics are the soul of my creations. I have concentrated on getting impeccable cuts and a perfect finish rather than weighing the garments down with more work," she underlines.

She travelled all over India to source fabrics of the best quality. "I looked for natural fibres like cotton and silk with traditional mango, peacock and floral motifs and also had some pieces specially woven to suit my designs," she says.

Though her fabrics are traditional, Uma's creative touch can be seen in her choice of unconventional colours like pistachio green brocade, deep purple ikkat, blue and white leheriya and banarsi weaves in white and gold.

The resulting collection of over 300 garments is an eclectic mix of feminine skirts, fitted jackets, backless, off the shoulder and asymmetric cut tops for evening wear and crushed cotton blouses, colourful ikkat capris and short kurtis for casual dressing.

Uma's understanding of her craft is evident in small details like the use of crushed tissue in black and gold to accentuate the cut of a figure hugging skirt or the tassels dangling from the hem of another skirt.

"Keeping the needs of different women in mind, I have included skirts of varying lengths and I have made sizes ranging from UK eight to UK 16," specifies Uma. "By carefully monitoring costs, I have ensured that my prices are reasonable and within the reach of every fashion conscious woman," she emphasises.

Launching her own label has been her dream since she graduated, but Uma put marriage and her baby first. Encouraged by her husband Yogesh, she has now plunged herself in her work. An organised and methodical person, she started by doing an exhaustive market survey and a sample appraisal in Dubai.

"My friends who run a fashion studio in Mumbai offered me their manufacturing facilities and many other friends have pitched in to create my fiery Pepper logo, model for me and to help me with the marketing," acknowledges Uma gratefully.

"I am not a bored housewife dabbling in a hobby. I am committed to making my label a successful international brand and I hope to have my own design studio some day. Just as pepper is an important ingredient in all cuisines, my Pepper brand attire should become an essential part of every fashionable wardrobe," hopes Uma.