For those in the water, it can be a spiritual obsession. For those watching on the beach, it can be a sport.
Yet, everyone agrees there's a mystical allure to surfing the perfect wave, one that drives people to travel around the world, no matter what the climate.
The small town of Tofino sits on the edge of Vancouver Island, the largest island along the North American west coast.
Tofino lies on the wild west coast, battered by volatile weather that washes up debris along its long sandy beaches and shreds branches from the forest in the surrounding Pacific Rim National Park.
In this land with a severe, unpredictable climate, the local wildlife consists of black bears, wolves and cougars.
The population is an unusual mix of loggers, hippies — and surfers.
For Tofino is one of the few places to surf in Canada and anyone in the country wishing to embrace the lifestyle invariably ends up there.
Friendly community
I decided to don a wetsuit and grab a board to understand what draws the crowds to surfing in these icy waters, frequently patrolled by packs of killer whales and a strong wind blowing.
As a beginner, I was relieved to discover that the local surfing community was friendly and welcoming.
Surfers are known to be territorial and aggressive about their waves, but Tofino has a large community of women surfers and much of the testosterone is absent.
Surf Sisters has around 20 twentysomething female instructors, tanned and healthy, eager to teach both a male and female clientele the joys of surfing.
As instructors Krissy Montgomery and Tia Holmes kit me out in a thick but flexible wetsuit, they explain that the school caters to everyone — girls, boys, families and even a pair of 73-year-old twin sisters.
Given all the beautiful, not to mention warmer places to learn, why would anyone want to come to Tofino?
For starters, it's a beach break, meaning there's no reefs or rocks to worry about and the summer waves are particularly gentle for the beginners.
Ready to roll
Despite a cold onshore wind and overcast skies, I'm quite toasty as we walk through a forest to arrive on Cox Bay.
The waves seem small from the beach but I know that learning to surf is one of the more difficult physical challenges.
Wipeouts and crashes are dreaded but expected, as my body learns how to jump up and balance in one fluid motion, all the while dealing with a wave that may or may not break at that exact moment.
In the 10C waters, my booties, gloves and hood insulate me, keeping me comfortable enough to not feel the cold.
I do, however, notice how tough it is to paddle, choose a wave, keep my balance and stand up.
I spend the afternoon being ungracefully tossed around in the surf, until my tired arms become as rubberised as the wetsuit.
End of a hard day
My hotel room is just a few minutes' walk from the shore and recovering from the experience as I lie in a large bathtub, I look out to see surfers riding the waves.
As my thoughts drift to nature and the absence of pushy attitude, I wonder: Who needs to travel all the way to Hawaii?
— Robin Esrock is a freelance travel writer and co-host of Word Travels, a travel series on Nat Geo Adventure. Visit his website at: www.moderngonzo.com
Guidebook
Water ways
Tofino is a three-hour drive across the island from Victoria, the capital of British Columbia.
Flights and floatplane charters are also available from Vancouver on the mainland. Pamper yourself at the Pacific Sands Resort, located right on the beach. Surf Sisters have daily lessons open to everyone of all ages.
It also give private classes and hold sessions for children and girls.
All equipment, including wetsuits and soft-top surfboards, is included for a two-hour lesson at Dh280 per person. For more information, visit www.surfsisters.com
